Experiencing the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, St. James’ Palace and Wellington Barracks
London’s popular Changing of the Guard Ceremony actually involves three locations: Buckingham Palace, St. James' Palace, and Wellington Barracks.
Different parts of the ceremony take place at certain times in each place. In theory, by carefully timing your arrival at each of these locations, the best views of the soldiers can be enjoyed. As this was not our first trip to London and we have already experienced the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace proper, we were looking forward to giving this alternative route a go.
After reading up on the timeline and following suggestions on the internet, we set our task to get from St. James Palace to Wellington Barracks to Buckingham Palace and back to Wellington Barracks. This is what we learned from our foray.
Table of Contents
The Old Guard assembles at Friary Court, Saint James Palace. These troops will march to Buckingham Palace for the guard change ceremony.
What we found is that while it is true that exciting close-up views of the soldiers and bands can be had at the alternative locations, getting from one place to the other while the ceremony is going on is not an easy trick. You have to be a bit of a sprinter to get there on time, and crowds along the Mall will always be somewhat thick.
We were there on a Monday in May, and while it was a bank holiday, it was not yet the busiest tourist time in London, which tends to be in summer. But it was still crowded enough to make “marching along” with the guard from St. James’ Palace to Wellington Barracks in time to see the New Guard leave (as suggested by some alternative view enthusiasts) a somewhat impossible feat.
This isn’t to say that St. James’ Palace and Wellington Barracks don’t offer good experiences. They both most definitely do. We just don’t think it’s possible to check every box in the process. Running down the Mall from one spot to the other, tripping over baby strollers and selfie-takers isn’t exactly a fun excursion. And these locations certainly aren’t “secret” at all - many umbrella-wielding tour guides take their groups to these spots so they don’t have to invest a lot of time waiting at the Palace gates early enough for a good view, while still offering their groups the flavor of it all. Nothing wrong with that at all, but make no mistake, you won’t be the only one hanging out in these alternative locations.
It started off promising - we did well at Friary Court, St. James’ Palace as you see from our great view in the photo above. However, our second stop at Wellington Barracks was a bit of a miss. We didn’t quite make it and crowds were already waiting there, as you can see by the photo below. And forget getting near Buckingham Palace for any good views by then. The popular higher-ground views were packed (though we never had any expectation of getting near the gates at this time, we were hoping for a wider view of the soldiers marching with the Palace in the background). So we needed a re-think.
When we tried to race from Saint James to Wellington Barracks a huge crowd had already assembled. A better approach is to take your time walking to the Barracks and get a good position (see map below) to get them returning.
There is no single place to watch the guard ceremony in its entirety, and there is no secret scheme to hit them all at the right time. You have to make a choice about what you want to see. The best case scenario is to get an idea of what is going on during the different parts of the ceremony, then plant yourself where you might see what is most interesting to you.
It is important to note, the actual ceremony of the Changing of the Guard takes place in the forecourt of Buckingham Palace. Period.
So if you aren’t there, you really aren’t seeing the ceremony. What you are basically seeing at the other locations are nice views of the troops coming and going. It’s still fun to experience but it’s more like watching a parade.
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What we recommend, from our own experience, is if it is important to you to experience the Changing of the Guard during your visit to London, then do invest the time in going early enough to Buckingham Palace and wait at the gates and witness the ceremony, which officially begins at 11 am. You will need to get as close to the Palace by the gates as you can or go to the area of the Queen Victoria Memorial which is in front of the Palace.
Get there at least 45 minutes early, which is a reasonable amount of time to wait without getting ridiculous about it. Even if that doesn't put your face right against the fence, it’ll get you close enough to see and hear what’s going on. As we were walking to the Royal Mews on another day for our 10:30 tour (blog post coming!) crowds were arriving steadily, heading toward the Palace. You will definitely want to get there ahead of these 10:30 arrivals.
But if you are spending another day in the vicinity (taking in one of the great Royal Parks perhaps) and you’ve already seen the Changing, or just don’t care all that much about missing the actual ceremony but would love a close-up look at those dazzling uniforms, then absolutely make use of the St. James’ Palace and Wellington Barracks locations. But we suggest doing it in a realistic and comfortable way.
We suggest starting at Friary Court, then leisurely walking to Wellington Barracks to see the troops return after the ceremony. This route is laid out in the map below and I elaborate more about it in our route suggestions section and “Quick Guide” bullet list further down this post, but first I will tell you a bit about the ceremony itself and give you the official timeline. Feel free to skip ahead if you don’t need this information.
Map of where to watch the Changing of the Guard
What actually happens during the Changing of the Guard?
To get the most out of seeing the Changing of the Guard ceremony at Buckingham Palace, it’s best to understand what is actually happening during the ceremony. With all the talk of “Old Guard’ and “New Guard”, and the many ceremonial names of troops, it can be a bit mystifying, especially for those of us from countries without royal traditions. I’ll give you the nutshell version of what’s going on here before we talk about the best way to view it.
The Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace is the traditional ceremony that represents the handoff of the responsibilities of guarding the Palace. Similar ceremonies also take place at other Palaces and Royal Residences, such as at Windsor Castle. This duty is carried out by the King’s Household Division, who are responsible for State Ceremonial and Public Duties.
The Guard is on duty not only at Buckingham Palace but also at St. James’ Palace. This is because St. James’ is the original seat of the monarchy, which is still referred to as the Court of St. James.
The foot soldiers of the Household Division reside at Wellington Barracks, only a stone’s throw from Buckingham Palace on Birdcage Walk, traditionally so they could be there very quickly when needed in an emergency.
Foot soldiers of the Household Division march from Saint James’ to Buckingham Palace.
So the idea is, the soldiers on duty at St. James’ Palace march down to Buckingham Palace to assemble with the soldiers on duty there in the forecourt in front of the Palace. The unit on duty is referred to as the Old Guard. There they are relieved officially by a fresh set of troops that arrive from Wellington Barracks. This new set of troops is referred to as the New Guard.
The exchange of duties involves some ceremonial doings and musical interludes. Then the New Guard in charge of St. James’ marches along the Mall to take up their position, while the New Guard for Buckingham Palace takes up their duties where they are. The assembled Old Guard goes off duty and back to Wellington Barracks. Simple when you know what’s going on, right?
There is also a shorter, scaled-down guard change at Clarence House, where King Charles III currently still resides, as he did while still Prince of Wales. It also takes place at 11 am and is a kind of “just the facts, ma’am” version of the whole affair, involving just a few soldiers. There is less area for viewing the ceremony but also fewer people viewing it. No bands or horses but you still can see those snazzy red uniforms, fuzzy bearskins and precision movements.
Timeline for the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace:
Before the Ceremony
10:30 am - The Old Guard on duty at St. James’ Palace forms up at Friary Court and there is a uniform inspection and maybe a quick band recital.
10:40 am - The New Guard is inspected at Wellington Barracks and plays music while awaiting the arrival of the Regimental Colour. (“Colours” refer to the regimental flags that traditionally served as regimental emblems and provided rallying points in battle. Today, they carry regimental distinctions or battle honors emblazoned on them.)
10:43 am - Old Guard leaves St. James’ Palace (a contingent remains until it is replaced by a part of the New Guard; hence the Palace is not left “unprotected”) and marches down the Mall preceded by a military band.
10:57 am - New Guard leaves Wellington Barracks and marches towards Buckingham Palace for the ceremony.
During and after the Ceremony
11:00 am - Ceremony begins at Buckingham Palace. (I’ll explain it in some detail below)
11:10 am - St James’ Palace relief leaves Buckingham Palace (replacing the contingent that was left there earlier)
11:25 am - St James’ Palace (Old Guard) contingent leaves St James’ Palace
11:40 pm - The entire Old Guard leaves Buckingham Palace toward Wellington Barracks
11:45 pm - St James’ Palace Guard (New Guard - the rest of it) leaves Buckingham Palace
A crowd assembles at the intersection of Spur Road and Birdcage Walk waiting for troops to march to Wellington Barracks, concluding the Changing of the Guard.
The Changing of the Guard Ceremony in the Forecourt at Buckingham Palace
So what actually happens in the forecourt of Buckingham Palace during the Changing of the Guard? Well, of course, there is much traditional pomp and circumstance, but it is a very interesting ceremony. Here’s the consolidated version:
When the New Guard enters the forecourt at 11 am, it marches in front of the band and then halts and faces the Old Guard. The band then plays the New Guard’s Regimental Slow March and the Old and New Guards “present arms’ to each other, which is basically a salute with their rifles.
The Captain of the Old Guard then hands over the key to the Palace to the New Guard, a symbolic changeover of responsibility. The new sentries (the dudes in the little black huts) are posted, one at a time, as a Lance Corporal gives them any special orders from the previous guard. While this is happening, the Regimental Band forms a semi-circle in the center of the forecourt and entertains the crowd with some music.
The old sentries join up with the rest of the Old Guard. Both Guards then reassemble, and it’s now time for the Old Guards Regimental Slow March. The two Guards give each other some official compliments, and then the Old Guard exits toward Wellington Barracks, marching along to the Band.
The New Guard remaining at the Palace divides in two. The group that will guard St. James’ Palace marches off down the Mall with the remaining Band and places the Regimental Colour (flag) in the Guard Room there, while the Buckingham Palace detachment retires to the Guard Room at B. Palace to begin its official duties of being on watch.
Even if you can’t quite see every movement, there’s enough going on at this ceremony where you will be able to hear and see something. We think it is worth it for your first time experiencing the ceremony to go to Buckingham Palace.
Soldiers march from Buckingham Palace to Wellington Baracks concluding the Changing of the Guard.
Our suggestions for seeing the Changing of the Guard at St. James’ Palace and Wellington Barracks
Note - there is a Quick Guide in the next section below if you just want the basics.
As mentioned above, if you’ve seen it before or just want a new angle on the Changing of the Guard, there are good views available at St. James’ Palace and Wellington Barracks. Though we’ve read lots of takes on this, we think the best way to utilize these locations is to see the beginning of the ceremony at Friary Court, St. James’ Palace, then take a leisurely walk down the Mall and set yourself up at Wellington Barracks for the return of the Old Guard. (please use our map further up in this post.)
Here’s the breakdown of what to expect:
St. James’ Palace
It’s a nice close view of the Old Guard assembling in Friary Court at St. James’ Palace at the start of the ceremony. It’s best to arrive there about 10:15 am and wait across the street, on Marlborough Road. There will be police barriers up, and it’s not a lot of space, but you should be able to get a spot at the barrier no problem at 10:15. Although it’s not too big a crowd generally, it’s getting more popular. You won’t be alone but you should still be able to get a great view.
There is a uniform inspection and you may get a little band concert before they march off. But when we did this in May, there was no musical number played before they left, so I don’t think it’s a given; more likely it’s a summertime thing. The band will lead the troops out of Friary Court and down Marlborough Road where they will turn right onto the Mall. In the process, they will march right in front of you for a very exciting and lively view. They leave St. James at 10:43.
Troops leave Saint James and march to Buckingham Palace.
Alternatively, you can set yourself up at the Mall, across the street and facing Marlborough Road to see them turn right onto the Mall. (You will have no problem hearing the band from here if they play at Friary Court). It is difficult to do both; standing by Friary Court to watch them assemble and get inspected, then quickly running to the spot across the Mall, as we have seen suggested. There are just too many people and crossing the Mall is prohibited as the Old Guard leaves, so if your timing isn’t perfect, you could easily get stuck on the wrong side for getting to Wellington Barracks.
We’ve also seen it suggested that you “march along” with the troops down the Mall. All I can say to this is, “yeah, right”. It’s really too difficult to keep up with them as the Mall is lined with onlookers. Not saying that you couldn’t walk a little way with them, but unless you are planning on running over people, you won’t keep up. So our advice is either do Friary Court or do the Mall spot. Just pick one. Once you see the Old Guard from either spot you can move onto Wellington Barracks.
Wellington Barracks
As listed in the timeline above, the New Guard assembles at Wellington Barracks at 10:40am and leaves there at 10:57am. We tried to get down the Mall in time to see them leave but it just didn’t work, due to the crowds. It is best to either plant yourself there in the first place and skip Friary Court, or do as we did next and get yourself positioned for when the Old Guard returns, which is actually pretty great.
At this point there was no chance to see anything at Buckingham Palace. All the best vantage points were full. So we took up a spot right at the intersection of Birdcage Walk and Spur Road and waited for the Old Guard to return. We could hear the music from the ceremony at the Palace and it was a pleasant wait.
Troops return to Wellington Barracks at the conclusion of the Changing of the Guard ceremony in London.
This turned out to be a really excellent spot to view the returning Old Guard to the Barracks. They marched right toward us, instruments blaring and made a left turn right in front of us on their way into the Barracks. We also saw the Clarence House contingent leaving as well as some of the King’s LifeGuard on horseback, though they did not come toward us, but it was still a very clear view at the top of the circle.
There was still more to see as the Old Guard did an inspection and the Band played inside the gates of Wellington Barracks before they went inside. Most people instinctively want to crowd around the entrance gates, thinking it's the clearest view, but don’t get stuck there with everyone bunched up. If you move further to your left, you can see very well through the iron fence without anyone in your way.
The Mall
It’s worth mentioning that perhaps one of the easiest places to position yourself if all you really want is a glimpse of the guards and horses regally going by is anywhere along the Mall between Buckingham Palace and St. James’ Palace. There’s a reason why it’s crowded - it’s a classic view!
Grab your spot early enough so you can see the Old Guard coming down from St. James Palace, at about 10:45 am as aforementioned. You may get to see the King’s LifeGuard on horseback and the foot guard from St. James’ crossing each other as they go in opposite directions along the Mall, and saluting each other, which is pretty cool. You won’t see anything else until the New Guard comes back to St. James Palace after the changing ceremony at the Palace, but might I then suggest a stroll up the Mall and visit the KIng George VI & Queen Elizabeth Memorial? It’s very beautifully done and it just happens to be one of my favorite spots in London!
Fun fact - The Mall is paved in red bricks to resemble a red carpet that rolls from Trafalgar Square to Buckingham Palace.
Our Quick Guide for viewing the Changing of the Guard at St. James’ Palace and Wellington Barracks
Arrive on Marlborough Road at 10:15 am across from Friary Court at St. James’ Palace and watch the Old Guard assemble, possibly play some music, then march off to the Mall at around 10:45 am.
After the guards have passed, walk up Marlborough Road toward the Mall. You should be able to cross the street by this time and take a leisurely stroll down to Wellington Barracks. You may be able to catch some of the marching action on the Mall, depending on your timing and how crowded it is, particularly the horse guards coming back up the Mall as they head toward Horse Guards Parade for their own guard change. (blog post coming soon!) You can also cut through St. James Park along the way to the Barracks.
At Wellington Barracks, position yourself at the intersection of Birdcage Walk and Spur Road and await the return of the Old Guard at about 11:45 am. (this may sound like a long time to wait, but it is the best use of your time, as you will be assured of a good position and not miss the final bit of action.)
After they return in all their splendor, move to the fence and watch the Old Guard finish their ceremonial duties.
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Changing of the Guard at Horse Guards Parade featuring the Kings Life Guards on horseback.
Changing of the Guard at Horse Guards Parade
As an alternative to the changing of the foot guards at the Palace, you may want to check out the changing of the guard for the Household Cavalry Regiment that takes place at Horse Guards Parade, also at 11 am. This ceremony gets less attention than the one at the Palace, so you can generally get up close without too much of a head start (we got there only 15 minutes early and got right in front.)
It features the fabulously gold-armored and helmeted King’s Life Guards and their horses. What could be better than that? The Horse Guards building also houses the surprisingly delightful Household Cavalry Museum which is enjoyable for young and old alike. Read about the Changing of the Guard at Horse Guards Parade here.
Take care not to stand in the way of the Guards on their foot patrol in the courtyard as they will not stop or go around people who are impeding their progress (I learned this the hard way).
If someone gets in the way of the mounted sentries on duty, you will hear a very loud shout of "Make way for The King's Guard!". Believe me, it will wake you up! So don’t get too close with those selfies. ;)
Note - While London has the most famous Changing of the Guard ceremony there is also a ceremony at Windsor Castle. At the Windsor Castle ceremony, you may even get closer than in London. You can read about it in our Windsor blog post: Windsor Castle: a complete guide to planning your day trip from London
FAQs about the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace
Q: Does Changing the Guard at Buckingham Palace take place every day?
A: In June - July, the Changing of the Guard takes place every day.
From August -May, the Changing of the Guard occurs every Monday, Wednesday, Friday & Sunday.
Please note that the ceremony may be canceled due to weather or other circumstances on very short notice, sometimes as late as 10:45 am on the day of!
Q: What time does the Changing the Guard ceremony at Buckingham Palace take place?
A: The Changing of the Guard takes place at 11 am in the forecourt of Buckingham Palace. A more detailed schedule is highlighted above. You will need to get there at least 45 minutes early to get a good viewing spot as it does get busy.
Q: Do I need tickets to see the Changing the Guard ceremony at Buckingham Palace?
A: No, tickets are not required to see the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace or at Horse Guards Parade. However, to see the guard change at Windsor Castle, tickets are required as the change takes place within the castle grounds.
Q. Can I see the Changing the Guard while visiting the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace?
A: No, it is not possible to see the Changing of the Guard while visiting the State Rooms or Gardens at Buckingham Palace, because the changing takes place in the forecourt of the East Wing of the Palace, and the State Rooms are situated in the West Wing of the Palace. To try to see both on the same day, it is better to see the Changing first and schedule your State Room tour afterward. The State Room/Garden tour takes about 2 hours so even if you take the earliest one, you will miss the changing of the guard.
(For information on seeing Buckingham Palace from the inside, see our blog post on Visiting Buckingham Palace in 2023.)
Q. Are the guards at the Changing the Guard at Buckingham Palace real soldiers?
A: Yes! All the foot soldiers and cavalry you see are members of the King’s Household Division and are real fighting soldiers. These regiments proudly carry out the dual role as the Sovereign’s personal troops and a real military unit that can be dispatched as needed.
There are five Regiments of Foot Guards: the Grenadier Guards, the Coldstream Guards, the Scots Guards, the Irish Guards, and the Welsh Guards. You can tell the difference between the regiments by the color of the plume on their bearskins and which side it is worn on, as well as by the arrangement of the buttons on their jackets. It’s a fun game to figure out what regiment you are looking at based on these clues! Here’s a link that will help you identify them: Household Division Foot Guards
Q. Where can I learn more about the Changing of the Guard?
A: Check out the official website of The Household Division for lots of great information on the history and doings of this ceremonial regiment. You can also visit The Guards Museum at Wellington Barracks and The Household Cavalry Museum at Horse Guards Headquarters.
If you enjoyed this post, and want more ideas on what to do in London, stay tuned for lots more from our most recent trip. For wintry fun in London, take a look at our previous post on Visiting London in Winter and Christmas — The Empty Nest Explorers
Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we are recommending a product, activity, or hotel, we might be receiving a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
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