Visiting Madrid: our favorite things to do

Madrid, the vibrant capital of Spain, has so many attractions and places to explore a first-time visitor may find it hard to know where to begin.

It is well known for historical sites, museums, first-class food & nightlife, beautiful parks, fabulous architecture, and a distinct lively style.

Here are a few things we feel are must-do attractions in Madrid. 

Plaza Mayor in Madrid

Early morning reflections after a rainstorm at Plaza Mayor in Madrid..

Table of Contents

    Is the Royal Palace of Madrid worth a visit?

    The Madrid Royal Palace

    The courtyard of the Royal Palace in Madrid. All photos by John O’Boyle / The Empty Nest Explorers

    Even if royalty isn’t your thing, we think the royal palace in the heart of the city is worth checking out.

    We really enjoyed our visit. Overflowing with masterpiece artwork and decor that brings together styles of the many cultures that have contributed to Spain’s history, it gives you a good handle on the sometimes confusing story of this country.

    I just felt it gave me an appreciation of their history that I might have missed otherwise. 

    The sumptuous palace (2,800 rooms!!) is the focal point of El Madrid de los Austrias, the most historic neighborhood of Madrid. The modern Spanish royal family doesn’t actually live there, (they live in the Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of the city) but as their “official residence” it is used for official events, ceremonies, and state dinners so it is still a very active, working palace. 

    As one of the most visited and well-known landmarks in Madrid, it can get crowded so booking your tickets online is highly recommended. You can queue up for “on-the-spot tickets” if you like but expect a wait.

    There are a few different ticket options available on their website and the prices, as these types of attractions generally go, are quite reasonable. 

    As it was our first trip to Spain, we wanted some context to what we were seeing, so we opted for a Skip-The-Line Early Entrance Guided Tour that we booked through Viator. We thought it was definitely worth it. 


    The Royal Palace is included in Go City Explorer Pass. These kinds of compilation passes can be a great value when visiting the city, but make sure you do the math first, to see if the sights it includes mesh with your plans and that you will be making good use of it before you buy. More info here.

    Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we recommend a product, activity, or hotel, we might receive a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.

    Royal Palace of Madrid interior

    Touring the inside the Royal Palace of Madrid.

    Our guide Xavier was very informative and entertaining as he explained the many changes that have taken place in the fluid life of the palace. Some of the decorations on the ceilings and walls of certain rooms were just astounding, especially the porcelain used for what my father would have called the “cheesecake” on a particular ceiling. I’ve never seen porcelain used in that way.

    Interestingly, styles from other cultures that were in vogue during different periods of time made their way into the palace design, making it a museum of general artistic trends around the world through the timeline of Madrid’s history.

    Unfortunately, photos aren’t allowed past the first two grand rooms of the tour, because I surely would have liked to record some of this resplendent handiwork. We also saw a table set for a massive state dinner which was a feast for the eyes in its sparkling grandiosity.

    Even if you don’t have the time to visit the palace itself, you might enjoy the ceremony of the changing of the guard. It takes place on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 11 am till 2 pm outside the Puerta del Príncipe gate.

    During the ceremony, four members of the Royal Guard are relieved of their positions - two-foot soldiers and two soldiers on horseback dressed in their colorful uniforms. If you're interested in witnessing a bigger hoopla, the Solemn Changing of the Guard, takes place on the first Wednesday of the month, featuring 400 soldiers, fifes, drums, horses, artillery carriages, and all the finery to satisfy your royal soul. 

    Royal Palace of Madrid courtyard

    The courtyard of the Royal Palace of Madrid.

    An additional point of interest when visiting the royal palace is The Palace Gardens, known as the Campo del Moro. They are located just behind the Palace, are free to enter, and are open to the public at the same hours as the palace.

    It’s just a great neighborhood to visit, and there are two beautiful parks, Parque del Oeste and Parque Casa de Campo, which can be easily added to your day after taking in the indoor splendors. Madrid, I was surprised to learn, is one of the greenest cities in the world and has some amazing parks. 

    Book the Skip the Line tour that we took here.

    Is visiting Templo de Debod worth it?

    Visitors walk through Templo de Debod in Madrid.

    It may surprise you to learn that there is an ancient Egyptian temple in the middle of Madrid! The Templo de Debod was gifted to the city in 1968 as a thank-you for Spain’s help in saving historic Egyptian monuments during the flooding of the Aswan Dam. It sits in Parque del Oeste, one of Madrid’s lovely greenspaces. 

    We are putting this destination on our list, more for the walk through the parks from the Royal Palace than for the temple itself. Though it is a pretty remarkable sight to see such a structure in a Spanish city, waiting in a queue just to take a selfie in front of the temple isn’t worth it.

    But what definitely is worth it is taking in the vistas of western Madrid directly behind the temple. 


    Map of the attractions on this post. Click in the upper left to see the map legend.

    Visit Casa de Campo and ride the Aerial Tram (Teleferico de Madrid)

    If you’ve visited this blog before, you probably know we are fans of aerial trams and gondola rides. I just love the perspective it gives you on the terrain below.

    The Teleferico de Madrid is an excellent one, connecting Parque del Oeste with Casa de Campo and giving the rider stunning views of the massive park that seems to go on forever.

    Passengers ride in a Madrid Teleférico cable car over Casa de Campo.

    There’s a legend that Spanish schoolchildren learn that states that the country was once so lush that a squirrel could traverse the entire country from tree to tree.

    Well, that may be the stuff of legends, but when you are dangling over Casa de Campo in a cable car, you appreciate what they meant. The green just goes on and on.

    Casa de Campo is the largest public park in Madrid. To give a New Yorker perspective, it is about five times the size of Central Park in NYC.

    It contains attractions such as a zoo, amusement park, multiple playgrounds, a man-made lake, and many trails for walking, running & biking. The hilly acres are covered with scruffy pine trees, oak, and Mediterranean bushes, set against reddish-blonde soil in the semi-arid climate. From above on the tram and to my humble eye, it almost has a Serengeti feel. 

    Madrid cable cars with the city in the background.

    Madrid Teleférico is a cable car service that connects both sides of Madrid, crossing the river and helping locals avoid rush-hour traffic. It’s part of the regular transit system of Madrid and moves a lot of people, not just tourists. It has 72 cabs, with six seats each, and takes 11 minutes to ride from one end to the other. Tickets can be bought at the Parque del Oeste entrance point.

    The park can also be reached via the Metro, but take the tram! It’s more fun.

    Visit El Retiro Park, a green oasis in the heart of Madrid

    While on the subject of Madrid’s many greenspaces, El Retiro park is a favorite with the locals and worth a visit. This beautiful lush park in the heart of the city can be easily reached via the Metro. 

    boaters at El Retiro Park

    People enjoy a boat in El Retiro Park.

    The park features many gardens, and even in January, there were flowers in bloom. There is a lake where you can rent a rowboat, and many unique monuments and fountains. Interestingly, the only monument to the devil in the world exists in El Retiro park! The Fountain of the Fallen Angel was sculpted for the World’s Fair in Paris in 1878, it depicts the moment of Lucifer’s fall from heaven. It’s just one of the many unusual - even quirky - artistic works in the park.

    Another is the Glass Palace, a striking pavilion built of iron and glass, that occupies prime real estate in the Campo Grande, or center of the park. 

    El Retiro park Glass House

    The Glass Palace in Madrid’s El Retiro park

    I got a Central Park vibe from El Retiro park - the combination of interesting structures with offbeat stories and people from all walks of life felt almost like home. Do keep an eye on your wallet and valuables here, though, as opportunists know the area draws tourists. 

    We enjoyed our tapas food tour in Madrid

    “You went to Spain? Did you have tapas?”  (The first question everyone asks when you tell them you just came back from Spain.)

    I have to admit while preparing for this trip, I was a little suspect of the culture of “tapas”; specifically, whether it was really as much of a thing as travel bloggers want you to believe.

    Just like in Italy, where we found “aperitivo” wasn’t as big a cultural ritual as what we’d read - it’s pretty much just grabbing drinks and appys after work - I was wondering if “tapas” was just another one of those words that sounds continental and fun to the American ear, but really isn’t a big deal once you get to Spain.

    Madrid tapas tour

    A variety of hams at a shop counter.

    I was both right and wrong. Tapas are definitely a thing - a style of serving food and a social ritual, but there’s no magical mystery about it. In fact, the casual nature of it all is what makes it fun. You almost can’t make a mistake. 

    Bars generally all serve savory snacks that you can order with your drinks - those are tapas.  Restaurants offer smaller servings of certain dishes - those are also tapas, as opposed to a “plate” or larger serving. Sharing is informal and expected and tasting something new feels easy when it comes on that little unassuming plate. 

    So, basically, you can’t visit Spain without experiencing tapas in some way!

    You can pretty much sit down at any eatery in Madrid and have a go at tapas. But the cultural ritual part comes in when moving from bar to bar for a drink and a tapa or two, then moving on to the next. It’s a tasty sort of bar crawl where you create your meal over several stops.

    Since it was our first trip to Spain, we again wanted some context to the experience. We have found that, while visiting different cities, food tours are a great way to get introduced to the culture and gain an appreciation not only for the food, but for the history, legends, and even lies about where you are. We always enjoy them.

    So we booked ourselves a tapas food tour with Adventurous Appetites. It was such a great experience! Our guide was a jolly Scot named James who has lived in Madrid for 20 years and has great practical knowledge of the area. He took us on a walking jaunt through the old quarter, introducing us to a string of bustling bars where he knew just what to order while sharing some funny anecdotes about the city and its history. 

    Not everyone speaks English in Madrid (though they give it a go) so it was really helpful to have someone order for us for the first time. James always consulted the group for our preferences before ordering and encouraged us to try some new things, so it was a very customized, personal experience.

    Going on a food tour like this also forces you to be in a group with other folks on holiday and it’s usually an interesting mix of people. And once you’ve gotten the intro into the food culture, it becomes much easier to try it yourself and become a brave food adventurer. ;)

    You can book the Adventurous Appetites tour here

    Meals are late in Spain - our tapas tour didn’t start till 8 pm, and that is typical. Madrid is a very walkable city and the streets are busy at night so one does not feel unsafe wandering around.

    Overall, I found the food to be consistently good and fresh, no matter where you go. And I really loved how easy it was to simply ask for a cerveza and get a no-fuss but deliciously crisp beer. No fretting over a bougie IPA menu!


    As a confirmed fan, all I can say is - Tapas for life!!


    Visit the San Miguel Market (Mercado de San Miguel )

    Wet streets around Mercado de San Miguel after an evening shower.

    We like to joke that all European cities MUST have a market for tourists to visit, but the Mercado de San Miguel is the real deal. We liked it so much, we visited twice.

    Located close to Plaza Mayor, the San Miguel Market is one of Madrid’s most famous landmarks and is popular with tourists and locals alike. It was built in 1916 and still retains its striking early 20th-century iron structure, which is worth seeing even if you aren’t hungry. But it’s pretty hard to go here and not eat - it really is a user-friendly market.

    Over 20 stalls serve high-quality Spanish products, such as Iberian ham, fresh seafood, Mediterranean rice dishes, excellent cheeses from Castilla, Asturias, or Pais Vasco, plus delicious wines, beers, and fresh juices.

    San Miguel Market in Madrid

    What I really love about this market is that it is set up for the tapas style of eating. Every stand sells individual portions for consumption right away - of course, you can do some general grocery shopping but the majority of folks come here to graze and grab a glass of wine or beer. Happiness is strolling with a paper cone of serrano ham.

    Price-wise, you may spend a bit more here than at a local bar, but the experience is so easy and non-intimidating that the extra coin is just not worth fussing over. It does get busy, but there are lots of tables or you can stand at the window counters and watch the world go by. It’s fun, it’s lively and it’s tasty.

    Empanadas at San Miguel Market

    A large variety of empanadas at San Miguel Market

    Don’t forget to save a few euros to use the restroom! Like many of the public bathrooms in Spain, they charge a small fee, but they are clean and well-maintained.

    The market is located at Plaza San Miguel and you can get there via Metro Ópera (Lines 2 and 5) and Sol (Lines 1, 2, and 3).

    Operating hours: Sunday to Thursday from 10:00 – 24:00; Friday, Saturday, and the eve of public holidays from 10:00 a.m. – 01:00 a.m.

    Have chocolate & churros at San Gines: Madrid’s oldest chocolateria

    I saved this one for last because – CHOCOLATE!  Ok, I admittedly got a little obsessed with the chocolate experience in Spain; the thick, steaming, not-too-sweet delight that is sophisticated enough to be served in a cappuccino cup with a saucer but homey enough to dunk in a crispy churro with all the gusto your inner child can muster.

    Exterior of San Gines chocolate

    The exterior of San Gines chocolate. You can order inside and the staff will bring the chocolate to you.

    I can’t say I had a bad cup of chocolate anywhere I went, but what makes this particular stop fun is the history. San Gines is the oldest Chocolateria in Madrid. The building dates back to 1890 when it was established as a restaurant and inn, but in 1894, San Gines began serving their famous chocolate and churros.

    There was a very long line the first time we tried, so we opted for a different chocolate stop that night, but we were determined to get into San Gines. So we tried again at around “teatime” on a Friday afternoon.

    The line wasn’t too bad and moved rather swiftly. They do have a good system for seating - you’ll need to show your receipt to sit, even outside, and they will show you to a table. It works. 

     

    Go City Pass

    If you plan to see multiple attractions during your trip a Go City Pass might save you money

    Take a look on their website and see. Click here.

    San Gines churros

    San Gines is constantly making churros so your order is guaranteed to be fresh.

    The nice thing about a place that gets a large amount of traffic is they do tend to have their act together and San Gines certainly handles the crowds well. And since they move so many churros they are always super fresh and delicious. I think these definitely were the best ones we had, and trust me, I never had a bad one! 


    The shop itself is delightfully decorated in old-fashioned green painted panels with lots of mirrors and marble and echoing with the tinkling sounds of spoons against china cups. I couldn’t resist stopping back in and picking up a bag of  “chocolate tradicional” powder to mix up at home back in the States. “Chocolate Poetry”, the bag reads. That alone makes me smile and takes me back to sunny, chilly, delicious Madrid. Now I just have to figure out this grams-to-ounces thing…

    Speaking of chocolate - if you are planning to visit Barcelona while in Spain then we’d highly recommend a visit to Carrer Petritxol. You can read all about our visit to Barcelona's "Chocolate Street" here.

    When in Spain, sleep late

    I’m including this because American traveling agendas often focus on getting up early to start the day’s sightseeing. It is a reasonable philosophy - vacations are expensive and everyone wants to experience as much as they can and make the most of their precious holiday time.

    But what you have to realize in Spain - and in much of Europe for that matter - is the day really does start later than in the US. The sun comes up later - especially in winter. (During our January trip to Spain, the sunrise didn’t happen until 8:30 am or later - and the streets were relatively empty till 10).

    And of course, Madrid is well known for its energetic nightlife which you won’t want to miss. Dinner is typically not eaten until 8, 9, or 10 pm, and the streets are bustling well into the night.

    So no need to rush your mornings; you’ll need the extra rest to enjoy a typical Spanish evening. Embrace the shift! We really enjoyed our leisurely breakfasts in Spain. Good coffee and pastries are easy to come by and surprisingly cheap.

    Speaking of sleeping, we stayed at Catalonia Las Cortes in Madrid. It’s a block from Plaza Santa Ana and a very short walk to Plaza Mayor. The staff was professional and the beds were very comfortable and everything was within walking distance.

    Interestingly, the hotel is inside an 18th-century, neoclassical-style building that once served as the Dukes of Noblejas's mansion. This explains the wonderful staircase and frescos around the building. We’d absolutely stay there again and highly recommend Catalonia Las Cortes.

    Check dates and rates at Catalonia Las Cortes here.

    How to get around Madrid

    We found that getting around Madrid was easy by walking and using the Metro. Walking around like a local is always the best way to experience a city, and most sites in Madrid are within a 15 to 30-minute walk.

    We also made good use of the Metro system when going further distances or when our feet were tired. We found it to be a good one - with stops in all Madrid neighborhoods, there are more than 12 lines that connect to each other, making it a convenient, reliable, and affordable way to get around. You can purchase a metro card, and load it with multiples of 10 rides. More than one person can utilize one card, as you don’t “swipe out” at your destination.

    You can download a Metro Map here: https://www.esmadrid.com/en/madrid-metro-map

    So that’s our favorite things to do in Madrid.

    Of course, one could come up with another 8, or 16, or more things to do! But that’s what is so endearing about Madrid. It’s such an inviting city and there is something for everyone to enjoy.


    Frequently Asked Questions about visiting Madrid

    What are the best museums to visit in Madrid?

    Reina Sofia, the Prado, and the Thyssen-Bornemisza are three of Madrid’s most famous museums. All are located in the area known as the “Golden Triangle of Art.” You can purchase tickets here.

    What’s the best time of year to visit Madrid?

    We recently visited in early January and the weather was chilly but very pleasant. This is also the cheapest time to visit Madrid.

    Summer in Madrid is very hot so the best time of year to visit is the fall, from September to November or early spring.

    Is Madrid a safe city for tourists?

    Madrid is extremely safe for visitors. We felt very comfortable walking down any street at night.

    But there are pickpockets in areas where crowds gather. As always the best tips to avoid pickpockets are to keep your valuables out of sight in a buttoned or zippered compartment. If you stay aware of your surroundings you’ll be fine.

    Can I visit Madrid without speaking Spanish?

    You can absolutely visit Madrid without speaking Spanish. While not everyone speaks English we had no trouble at all during a recent trip. Staff at hotels and other tourist services will speak English.

    Learning a few basic phrases in Spanish will go a very long way.

     

    If you are traveling to other cities in Spain check out our blog post: Traveling by train in Spain.

    This post was researched and written by Debbie of the Empty Nest Explorers. You can learn more about the Empty Nest Explorers here.


    Some well-reviewed tours in Spain:

    Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we are recommending a product, activity, or hotel, we might be receiving a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched. 


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