Two Day visit to Santa Monica and Malibu
The Santa Monica Pier at dusk. All photos by John O’Boyle / The Empty Nest Explorers
Are visiting Santa Monica and Malibu worth it? In a word, yes.
We only had two days left at the end of our California vacation to experience southern California’s iconic beaches of Santa Monica and Malibu.
They are not only picturesque but “fun and happening”. So even just two days are enough to get a flavor of the area and top off the SoCal experience.
What to see in Santa Monica
We stayed at Le Méridien Delfina Santa Monica. The accommodations were quite nice, with the added bonus that it's not as expensive as the hotels that are along the beach. We could see the Pacific Ocean from our balcony, and it was only a short, straight walk down to the Ocean Front Walk and the famous Santa Monica Pier.
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The famous Route 66 sign on the Santa Monica pier.
It was very close to a full moon the night we arrived in Santa Monica, which made for a nice photo of the Route 66 “end of trail” sign. This is where the famous People’s Road originally terminated before being officially decommissioned in 1985.
We also happened to land here on St. Patrick’s Day, so the iconic ferris wheel on the Pier was lit up in green. (Aside from that, I found little recognition of the day or “wearing of the green” in the area. Not like it is in New York anyway, where it is almost a high holy day! Always interesting to me how the effect of different immigrant groups and where they originally settled in our vast country have a long-lasting legacy to those specific areas, even in our modern small world of easy travel and homogenization.
If you are looking for a change of pace from Los Angeles a trip to nearby Palm Springs is a great choice.
Redfin, the national real estate company, has quoted The Empty Nest Explorers in a great story about must-do experiences in Palm Springs. You can check out their excellent blog post here: 16 Must-Experience Activities in Palm Springs, CA
Walking along the Santa Monica beachfront and over to the pier is quite lovely in the evening, as that southern California weather almost never lets you down. Santa Monica Pier first opened to the public in September of 1909. It took a full sixteen months to construct the 1,600-foot-long concrete pier, which at first was constructed as a public utility for the city and later became a tourist destination.
The classic neon sign that marks the entry ramp is also historic and worth a photo or two. I loved the language on it, which includes the words “Yachting Harbor”. That part is definitely no longer accurate as it was in 1941 when erected, but “sport fishing, boating and cafes” are still a thing. It’s a great example of Neon Era signage and still doing its job by welcoming over 9 million visitors a year to the pier.
Go City Pass
If you plan to see multiple attractions during your trip a Go City Pass might save you money.
Take a look on their website and see. Click here.
People play in the Pacific Ocean surf in Santa Monica at sunset.
The pier extends over the beach and ocean, offering breathtaking views, especially at sunset. For my fellow bird nerds out there, I was happy to see a large group of Brown Pelicans fishing over the ocean, another local bird spotting for me. Along the oceanfront walk are the usual beachfront concessions and entertainments - munchies, street performers, live music, and trinket shopping. And I got accosted by a local homeless woman asking if I was “ok”, as she deemed I was walking too slow! (uh, what???)
If I had to describe how it is different from the “back home” Jersey Shore offerings, I would say in sheer size and space. The beach at Santa Monica stretches 3.5 miles.
While there are many great dining offerings along the lively strip, they were quite crowded even on a Thursday night, and after a long day that had begun in Palm Springs, we were too tired to deal with a significant wait. Trying to find a place to eat at 9 pm without a reservation got a bit frustrating, so we wound up Ubering to Pita House, which was in a strip mall close to our hotel. Not quite the “strip” we were envisioning for our dining experience, but I have to say, it was delicious and hit the spot.
Takeaway - the Santa Monica Pier at night is plenty of fun but the area is as crowded as you’ve probably heard, so be prepared for a wait if you’d like to eat there. And by all means, don’t walk too slow!!! ;)
We wanted to see what the Ocean Front Walk was like in the daytime, so the following day we walked over and found a more relaxed and less crowded scene. Though there were more actual beachgoers, of course, the walk itself was pretty empty.
I do love the towering palm trees that are signature to this place (though not indigenous, I learned), swaying over the wide, flat paved paths that make for easy walking and excellent biking.
Lyft bikes are conveniently available - ebikes cost $1 to unlock and $0.34/min to ride, which isn’t bad, and there are plenty of docks to leave them. The pace of the biking is noticeably chill - very different than some of the hardcore NYC bike paths that we are used to. Known as the Marvin Braude Bike Trail or “The Strand”, this paved path runs 22 miles along the shore from Will Rogers State Beach in Pacific Palisades all the way south to Torrance County Beach.
It’s worth noting that parking at the beach on the weekends can be very difficult. A much easier alternative, if you must drive, is to park downtown, where there is ample parking.
From there, it’s a short walk or bike ride to the Ocean Front Walk, with many points of pedestrian access. There are also public transportation options for getting to Santa Monica State Beach.
People working out on the beach in Santa Monica.
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Just south of the pier is the Original Muscle Beach. This famous beachside park where the beautiful (and not-so-beautiful) come to work out on the public gym equipment, is not to be confused with the “other” Muscle Beach in Venice, a little to the south. Interestingly, I learned, that this “original” location, as so dubbed, was part of the WPA project in the 1930s.
The unique park quickly gained popularity as a magnet for athletes, fitness enthusiasts, performers, and bodybuilders. In fact, it was from here that the California fitness movement really took off. To this day its worldwide reputation remains, making it a fun place to stop and watch the local acrobatics.
I really liked downtown Santa Monica. We had a great lunch at Kafe K on Main Street, with really superb iced coffee. We originally intended to check out Alfalfa, which has its original location in Hoboken, NJ, as we like to find our Jersey connections wherever we go. It wound up being a bit too crowded there, and Kafe K was just a few doors away, so we gave it a go. The caprese pesto panini was deliciously fresh and the Nutella cheesecake we shared to stretch out the relaxing outdoor dining experience was to die for.
Main Street is a very nicely urbanesque street to enjoy lunch, with lots of casual cafes and sidewalk seating. In fact, it felt a little like ‘Hoboken By the Sea’, if you flattened Hoboken out with the rolling pin, dropped it next to a beach, and ran a few highway-ettes through it. (If that makes any sense at all!)
Debbie having fun at the Third Street Promenade.
Nearby, the Third Street Promenade, which stretches from Broadway to Wilshire Boulevard, is the main downtown shopping district. It has that same “urban-but-not” Santa Monica vibe as Main Street but more sophisticated and populated, with major chain stores like Urban Outfitters and H&M, as well as more unique boutiques. It’s a lively area to check out day or night.
There are lots of outdoor dining options, many of which use local ingredients. It also features a farmers market every Wednesday and Saturday, from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. offering local produce and products. Once you’ve checked out both downtown and the beach, you really should have a feel for what Santa Monica is like. So onto Malibu!
Visiting Malibu: what to see in one day
In the early afternoon, we drove down to Malibu, which takes about an hour along the Pacific Coast Highway (aka, “The 1”). Weekends are busier so it could take longer, as traffic is always a mitigating factor in SoCal. It was there I finally got to put my feet in the Pacific Ocean! Note to self - it feels the same as the Atlantic Ocean! ;)
As you might expect, the beachfront homes of the rich and beautiful along the way are quite impressive. But it’s all rather tight and traffic is a constant. More unexpectedly, we were struck by the homes up on the hills, overlooking the beach rather than on it.
The higher locations offered more space and privacy than down below, while still having the same gorgeous ocean views. Some of these places were spectacular, with unique architecture and amenities we could only imagine. The hills were vivid green and covered with colorful wildflowers as well. Ah, to be rich and famous.
The view of the Pacific Ocean from the hiking trains at Point Dume State Beach and Preserve.
Along the coast of Malibu are some of the best beaches in the United States. To stop along the way, you’ll need to pay to park in one of the many small parking lots, but it isn’t crazily expensive. We enjoyed some of the hiking trails at Point Dume State Beach and Preserve. The easy sandy trails take you up to higher ground for breathtaking views over the beach as well as the Santa Monica Mountains, Santa Monica Bay, and Catalina Island.
I was taken by the rolling, rocky dunes covered in yellow wildflowers. In fact, “yellow” might be the one word that visually describes Malibu for me. Yes, the ocean is blue, the sand is pale, creamy tan like cafe au lait, but the feeling is captured in these tangled and rugged wild things covering the rocks and dunes in a bath of golden, sunshiney yellow.
Bird nerd alert: I had a close encounter with a Kestrel hunting along the trails. Though not a “local bird” (we have plenty of them in NJ), still a favorite and a great sighting. I could hear it coming with its signature “killy-killy” call and then it flew right over me in classic darting, falcon form. I could hear it so clearly because this place was very quiet.
Aside from the wind and the tide, it was quite silent around us. There were no noisy boardwalks, and though there were plenty of beachgoers, you just couldn’t really hear them. It was just us, the ocean, the wind and a fine kestrel.
A little to the north, we stopped at El Matador State Beach, famous for its massive rocks and caves. This beach is a photographer’s dream, even more spectacular at sunset. Instagrammers and picnickers abound.
There is a tiny, tiny parking lot, and good luck getting a spot in there. Most likely, you’ll have to park along the road as we did. And by “road”, I’m talking about the Pacific Coast Highway! It felt a little like a game of Frogger getting from our car to the entrance with traffic zooming by, but we lived to tell the tale. A very friendly police officer parked by the full parking lot entrance was very apologetic about the long walk but assured us we’d find it worth it when we got down there. And we did!
The view from high above El Matador State Beach at sunset.
Steps take you down to the secluded beach area with its labyrinth of towering rocks. The most prominent of the features is a massive rock that had a series of small arches, a few of them big enough to walk through. It might just be the prettiest and most unique beach I’ve ever seen.
We spent a lot of time there taking pictures and watching others do the same. Interestingly, a commercial was being filmed there at the time, with a full crew and actors so that was fun to watch for a while.
On the way back up the steps, we ran into one of the videographers who happened to be carrying a new model camera that had just come out so John couldn’t resist talking shop. They parted with a “good luck'' and a “thank you brother” and I couldn’t help feeling that it was somehow a very Californian exchange.
After quite a long day enjoying the sand, sea and sunshine, it was getting dark and we were starving! Heading back to Santa Monica where we were staying for one more night before our flight home, we came across Kristy’s Village Cafe, located in Trancas Country Market. If you hate your local strip mall now, you’ll really hate it after seeing Trancas, and realizing what a shopping center could actually be.
Set on a 17-acre natural sanctuary, it’s charming and rustic with a barn-style design and the hills are on one side and the coastline on the other. Kristy’s was exactly what we were looking for - great local food, local people, outdoor dining with heaters, excellent service and a relaxed atmosphere after a tiring day.
Under the full moon, we drove back to Santa Monica, satisfied and tired and a little sad our California sojourn was coming to an end. We just might have stopped for one more photo. ;) Peace out, LA. See you next time.
If you are looking for other fun things to do in the Los Angeles area check out our post about visiting Palm Springs and Joshua Tree.
The moon rises on our drive back to Santa Monica from Malibu.
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