What to eat when visiting Portugal
Portugal is a fishing country so it is of course well known for a delicious array of quality seafood. But Portuguese cuisine doesn’t end there! A wide variety of unique dishes - from savory pork sandwiches & spicy Piri-piri chicken to sweet Pastéis de Nata - also brighten the palate in this welcoming, beautiful country.
Of course, one cannot sample every delicacy in a single trip to Portugal, but we had fun trying! Here is the resulting list of what we tried, what we missed, what we liked and why we liked it.
Pastéis de Nata
I’m starting here with a sweet treat because it was my hands-down favorite thing to eat in Portugal. We usually had one for breakfast so I’m starting this post the way I started my days “in-country”. ;) And yes, I admittedly have a sweet tooth!
The Portuguese took their recipe for their fabulous custard-filled tarts to Ayutthaya and Macau, which explains why they are popular around the world. (I actually had my first experience with Portuguese egg tarts in Chinatown, in NYC.) But I don’t think I’m going out on a limb here when I say you haven’t really tasted their true deliciousness until you’ve tried them in Portugal proper.
Maybe because they are always so fresh here - they are so popular that they move very quickly and some bakery shops sell nothing else but “natas”. Or maybe it’s the quality of the ingredients, with particularly rich, delicious egg yolks and cream that are the stars of the lovely, dreamy custard, that make them so delicious, I’m not sure. But think of the flakiest, non-soggy pastry crust you can imagine, filled with a tasty, delicate, creamy custard, that you can devour in a few bites.
It’s just the best little breakfast or snack I can think of! And they pair perfectly with coffee. (There is usually cinnamon and confectionery sugar offered as a topping, but I mostly forgot to sprinkle it on and didn’t miss it.)
Pastéis de nata - or pastéis de Belém as they are known in the place of their origin - were first created by monks of Jerónimos Monastery in Belem, an area of Lisbon. After the Liberal Revolution of 1820, many religious orders were dissolved and in the face of the impending closure of the monastery, the monks started selling pastéis de nata at a nearby sugar refinery to bring in some money. In 1834, the monastery closed for good and the recipe was sold to the sugar refinery cafe.
This historic location, the Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, still exists, and you can go there and experience the same, well-guarded recipe created by the monks (as well as some other delectable pastries) and even see massive batches being made. And as you might expect, this is a very popular stop for anyone visiting Belém.
These “cream tarts” (literally was pastéis de nata means) may be the one food item I can think of that’s worth waiting on a line for (within reason, of course!) Just make sure you order them as “belems” and not “natas” when ordering these pastries in Belém!!! They pride themselves in being the OG and take this stuff pretty seriously!)
Tip: Go ahead and sit down here instead of using the take-out line, which is usually longer than the “dine in” line. This place is very large, with plenty of tables and no one is really hanging out that long. So you may have a little bit of a wait but not very long - less than the take-out line for sure, and you also get to see the interior with its lovely original blue tiling. We only waited about ten minutes to get a table. Worth it.
Pastéis de Belem do have a slightly different texture and taste than the “not from Belem” variety of natas. John liked these better, but I cannot really say I favor one over the other. They are all yummy!
Peri-peri chicken
Roasted chicken marinated in a spicy, tangy, delicious piri-piri sauce. We seriously could not get enough of this dish. The chicken itself is tender and juicy, with a smokiness that is perfect with the chili oil - or peri peri sauce - it is served with. As the oil is usually just put out on the table, you can make it as hot or mild a bite as you wish.
If I had to describe the flavor of the oil, I’d call it like a gentle “bee sting” of heat in the mouth; not inclined to hit the back of the throat like some hot sauces. (I thought our spicy-food-loving son was going to drink it straight from the bottle!) But even without the sauce, the rotisserie chicken has a delicious flavor on its own. It is often enjoyed with french fries, which are pretty ubiquitous in Portugal.
Piri-piri chicken is a very popular dish served in many restaurants and is a typical take-out item for locals and tourists alike. It was one of the foods I was most looking forward to tasting in Portugal - and I wasn’t disappointed!
Tip: You usually order it “for one” or “for two”. As there were three of us, we got a full order plus a half order, aka “for three”. It is then brought out on a single platter and served family style
We just had to have it on our last night in Lisbon - and barely talked as we gobbled it down! We enjoyed both the food and the wonderful service at Bonjardim.
Besides the chicken, we loved some of the side dishes - creamed spinach and a yummy salad. (Have I mentioned how particularly delicious I found the tomatoes in Portugal?) If you’re going to go to Bonjardim, try to get there a little early as a line can form. We managed to go there twice without waiting. But it certainly isn’t the only place to try peri-peri chicken in Lisbon.
Sardinhas Assadas
Grilled sardines are a specialty in Portugal. We unfortunately didn’t get a chance to taste them as we visited in winter and sardines are a summertime treat. This is a much larger (but not too large) fish than Americans might associate with the word “sardine”, and known for its tenderness and sweet flavor.
Along with the fresh sardines, tinned sardines are also uncannily popular. (See what I did there?) In fact, entire shops and even restaurants are dedicated to selling tinned sardines exclusively and in a wide variety. I know it’s kind of a thing to do here, and I’m sure they are good, but with only so many meals to experience in Portugal, I felt like I didn’t want to waste one on a canned sardine! But if you disagree with that decision, let me know and I’ll try it next time. ;)
Cataplana de Marisco
There are many variations on these fish & shellfish stews throughout Portugal, cooked in a rustic and fragrant saffron broth The dish is traditionally served to the table in the vessel it is cooked in - a special clamshell-shaped pot called a cataplana.
The local ingredients really shine in this dish. The seafood is just so sweet and flavorful in this part of the world, making this deeply satisfying stew a real winner. It’s composed of a mix of shellfish - clams, mussels & shrimp - teamed up with smoky local sausage and potatoes and flavored with onions, peppers, garlic and tomatoes.
Honestly I wasn’t even sure exactly what fish I was eating in the Seafood Rice (Arroz de Marisco) and Seafood Cataplana we shared at Taberna d'Adelia, a Michelin Star restaurant in the beautiful beach town of Nazaré, but all I can tell you that it was absolutely delicious - truly some of the best seafood I’ve ever eaten.
Clams
I have to give a special shout-out to the MANY clams I consumed in Portugal. These small, humble little darlings are part of many mixed seafood dishes, and also available solo as appetizers.
I really thought they stood out for their big taste in a little package. The clams in Portugal are small but particularly sweet and juicy. They are much more delicate and tender than the slightly chewy version I’m used to in New Jersey (and I like, but these were truly something special.
Bacalhau à Brás
We had to have at least one dish containing bacalhau (salted, preserved cod) while in Portugal, as it is an extremely popular local ingredient. Bacalhau à Brás is a savory egg & potato dish, minced up with finely chopped onions and the beloved salted cod.
I honestly wasn't a fan, but John thought it was alright. It is a curious thing really, the affection for bacalhau in this culture when so much delicious, fresh fish and seafood is available!
The codfish used to make bacalhau currently comes from the cold waters of Norway and Iceland, so it isn’t a local fish at all - and never was. Historically, the relationship between cod and Portugal goes back 500 years to the early days of trading between the British and Basque peoples who fished cod-rich waters in Newfoundland.
Cod proved to be easy to preserve and traveled well, and because meat was often restricted for religious reasons, bacalhau became a staple in the Portuguese diet. So, though it’s not exactly my cup of tea, I respect the affection and tradition surrounding it.
Bifana
A delicious marinated pork sandwich; we tried several incarnations of this as they were popular at the many holiday markets we visited. Each vendor does its own take on it, and I think the choice of bread can make or break it. The crustier the better! (Yes, the popular “Portuguese roll” known in delis across the US does, in fact, come from Portugal).
Sometimes served with mustard or piri-piri sauce, but we liked it best with the brothy “cooking juice” slathered generously.
Francesinha
This hearty sandwich really looks like something that should have come from the US! (Love my country but we are pretty much the undisputed Big Sloppy Food champions. Sorry, not sorry.)
Francesinha is made with simple sliced bread layered with cured meats, sausage and steak, topped with melted cheese and usually a fried egg. Then the whole lot is bathed in a rich, slightly spicy tomato-beer sauce.
Yowzer. Now that’s a sammy!
Sharing one of these between the three of us was plenty, and it was exceptionally good! Not as overwhelming as I expected it to be, and the flavors are pretty darn delicious. I really think the egg makes it for me - eggs are deliciously rich-tasting in this country. Also, the Portuguese version of chorizo-type sausage is very smooth and tasty, as is the cured ham, known here as presunto ibérico.
Many local restaurants serve francesinha and it is a popular lunch or snack. And though it’s considered a signature dish of Porto, we actually tried our first at TimeOut Market in Lisbon, which was a perfect location for doing a little grazing of some local specialties when we first arrived in Portugal.
Chouriço Assado
Sausages are a staple of Portuguese cuisine, and this very popular dish of grilled or roasted chorizo is served flaming at the table!
Traditionally, a boat-shaped terracotta bowl - an assador - is used, with the bottom of the dish filled with aguardente - a strong local spirit - which is set on fire before the sausage is placed on top to cook over flames until it is crisp and slightly charred, resulting in a smoky, rich flavor.
We didn’t get a chance to try this, unfortunately, although we had every intention! We really didn't see it on any menu in the places we ate, but it is said to be popular in tapas bars.
We did enjoy a few different sausages in several Portuguese dishes so I’m sure this must be tasty!
Caldo Verde (Green Soup)
A simple and delicious soup which is both a traditional dish and one that gets interpreted in different ways. The base of the soup is usually potatoes and kale, but it can also be made from other types of greens. It is also flavored with onions and olive oil. Enjoyed for generations in Portuguese homes, but you can also get it out in restaurants.
I really enjoyed this soup - I like that the texture isn’t overly thick even though the base is potatoes. It’s actually quite delicate, and the kale gives it a fresh and earthly taste. Just good comfort food!
Octopus
A favorite seafood ingredient in Portugal is octopus, which is served in different ways all over the country. Particularly tender is a Lisbon style of cooking octopus for a dish known as Polvo à Lagareiro, a grilled octopus dish served with potatoes, garlic and olive oil.
The octopus is usually deep-frozen before cooking to help tenderize it. Then it must be cooked very carefully - not undercooked or overcooked - to produce a very tender result.
Cachorrinhos (Portuguese Hot Dog)
The humble cachorrinho is somewhat of an institution in Porto. This quintessential snack food is regarded as the Portuguese version of a hot dog, and rivals the francesinha as the city’s most popular sandwich.
Nothing like an American-style hot dog - for one thing, it is much smaller - this little gem is made of thin, toasty bread stuffed with linguiça sausages, paired with melted cheese, and brushed with a spicy sauce.
The sandwich is usually cut up into bite-sized pieces and served on a plate. It is great washed down with a Super Bock, a signature Portuguese pale lager beer with a nice rich flavor that we really enjoyed. Not too light, not too heavy.
There are lots of places to get cachorrinhos in Porto, but we wanted to try Gazela Snack Bar, an unassuming but beloved spot where they have been famously serving up cachorrinhos for over 50 years.
It’s a popular location, usually with somewhat of a line out front, but we didn’t have to wait too long. Though the inside looks pretty cool with a famed wall of photos and an interesting mix of people from all walks of life, the seating is pretty limited inside so we opted to be seated outside. Our table was actually across the street in a plaza - which was quite nice even though it was threatening rain. You can also get takeaway if you prefer.
We thought the laid-back atmosphere and the perfect tasty combo of cachorrinhos & beer were just what we needed at this point toward the end of a busy trip. A more “civilized” hot dog break, if you will!
Gazela also serves great francesinhas, fries (Portuguese seemed to be very fond of potatoes), caldo verde, and other popular comfort foods.
If you are interested in taking a food tour in Portugal here’s a link to some well-reviewed tours.
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Queijo Serra da Estrela
Serra da Estrela cheese is sheep’s milk cheese made in the mountainous region of Serra da Estrela. It is known locally as simply “Serra.”
It’s a very creamy cheese, and the texture varies depending on its age, from a very soft semi-liquid when young, to a soft but sliceable solid when older. Most fans of the cheese feel it is best enjoyed in its young, creamy stage and I would agree.
We picked up some Serra at the Mercado do Bolhão, the well-known historic market in Porto, with the plan of enjoying it back at our hotel with some local jam and crackers. I really do like to pick up local foods in markets while traveling and either have a picnic outdoors or a snack while relaxing in our room.
OMG - It was so good!
The way to eat this cheese is to cut a hole in the top of the round and literally scoop it out with a spoon - it is like runny, very smooth cream - to be spread on bread or crackers. The flavor is tangy (almost on the verge of parmesan-like) but not quite that sharp - more mellow.
Once you’ve eaten all the creamy part, you can slice the more solid stuff on the edges, and the taste is a little different - less tangy and more subtle, in line with other mild soft cheeses.
We really loved this cheese - definitely something I’m going to keep my eye out for in international markets back home. Or I’ll just have to come back to Portugal for it!
Port Wine
Port wine - or simply called port - is produced in the historic Douro Valley, known for its dramatic landscape and traditional vineyards. The Douro Valley is the only place in the world that can legally produce port wine.
As a very basic description, port is typically a sweet red wine that is “fortified” - which means a spirit is added to stop the fermentation process. This leaves residual sugar in the wine which boosts the alcohol content, and also gives it a particular flavor that is less like typical wine and more towards brandy - to my palate anyway.
Port is often served with dessert, although it also comes in dry, semi-dry, and white varieties. I think I favor the ruby variety but the tawny is also very interesting - reminiscent of Scotch whisky in a way.
Volumes can be written on the subtle differences of types of port - and I am certainly no expert!
While it may not be to everyone’s taste, I really think one ought to at least give port a try while visiting Portugal as a cultural experience. It’s a very important product and export with an interesting history and reputation around the world.
There are many opportunities as wineries offer tastings and tours. It makes for a fun outing too!
If you’re interested in the Douro Valley, here’s a great tour that we took.
Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we are recommending a product, activity or a hotel, we might be receiving a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
Ginjinha
Also simply called ginja, this Portuguese sour cherry liqueur turned out to be one of my favorite little delights in Portugal.
Ginjinha is made by infusing ginja berries (Morello cherries) in an alcoholic spirit and adding sugar and some seasonings like cloves and cinnamon. It is generally sold as individual “shots” - often in an edible chocolate cup! (oh my!!!)
You can get it in an ordinary cup, of course, if you’d rather not have chocolate, but I would highly recommend going for the chocolate one. The sweet & sour combo is delightful and very complimentary.
A single berry is sometimes - but not always - placed in the cup with the liqueur. I liked it better when it had a berry! It seemed to make it more robust. I also think it was an indicator of a “better brand” or higher quality ginjinha, but that may be just my opinion.
Look for “hole in the wall” type stands selling “ginja” by the shot - they are not hard to find! We had it in several different places including Christmas markets and one very memorable complimentary drink when climbing the bell tower at Church of Santa Cruz do Castelo in Lisbon. As ginja is pretty strong, and with the very winding climb up the tower, I felt thoroughly warmed up when we reached the top where we enjoyed a sweeping view of the port and chatted with a nice couple from England whose cruise ship was visible below us.
And of course, we toasted the upcoming new year with our ginja!
But I think the absolute best-tasting ginjinha I had was in Óbidos, a charming medieval town not far from Lisbon that is somewhat known for the stuff. It had a particularly strong cherry flavor that I liked.
Ginja a is the type of drink that “feels like Christmas”, or at least a celebration, and since Óbidos goes all out for the holidays, making the entire town a veritable Christmas market, it felt particularly festive having it there!
Vinho Quente
Relatively new to Portuguese gastronomy is their version of mulled wine, or vinho quente.
It is a festive, warmed drink made with a mix of red wine, Madeira wine & other spirits, with citrus fruit and spices - cinnamon, vanilla, star anise, cloves - and usually some added sugar.
Vinho Quente pops up on winter menus and is extremely popular at Christmas markets, where it is sometimes billed simply as “hot wine”. It is delightfully soul-warming on a chilly night.
People generally have a strong reaction when you mention mulled wine - they either love it or hate it. But I am most definitely in the “love it” category!
We had a few different versions of this mulled wine and recipes vary, but my favorite by far was at a little restaurant in Sintra called Piadina where we stopped for lunch. It was their own recipe and tasted very fresh and not too sweet or heavy. And the blueberries bobbing around in my glass were the bomb!
Perfeito
If you are interested in reading more about our trip to Sintra, take a look at our post Visiting Sintra and Pena Palace.
This post was researched and written by Debbie of the Empty Nest Explorers. You can learn more about the Empty Nest Explorers here