Belem: A must see when visiting Lisbon
The Belem Tower at sunset. The photo was taken at low tide so you can walk out in an area that is usually under water. All photos by John O’Boyle / The Empty Nest Explorers
Belém is a famous riverside district of Lisbon, home to many of Portugal's most notable monuments and museums. You can see the Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower, the Monument of Discoveries and Belém Palace, as well as tasting the original recipe for Portugal’s famous custard tarts, Pastéis de Belém. And it’s all just a quick ride from the heart of Lisbon.
We ventured to Belém as one of our first excursions when we arrived in Lisbon, wide-eyed and ready to go. It was a great introduction to the beauty and history of Portugal’s capital city.
The popular district can get busy (like most places these days!) So in this post, we will share some points that worked for us on planning a visit.
How to get to Belém
Belém is roughly 6 miles from downtown Lisbon. There are two main transit options to get to Belém from the center of Lisbon:
One is the “commuter style” train that goes toward Cascais. You can take the train from Cais do Sodré station to Belém, which is three stops away.
You can use your Navegante (metro card) for this trip since you are traveling within city limits.
The other is the Tram 15 (this is the modern version of the old trolley; it is also called the 15E where “E” stands for “Eléctrico” - the word for tram in Portuguese.)
Tap your Navegante card on the validator on the tram.
These are both easy options; just check Google Maps to check the timing, so you pick what best works for you.
No matter how you get to Belém, we suggest taking the Tram back, so you can stop at LX Factory on the way home - more about that below.
Jerónimos Monastery and Church of Santa Maria
The main courtyard of Jerónimos Monastery.
The main tourist attraction in Belém is Jerónimos Monastery, which is considered one of Portugal’s most culturally important and historical monuments.
It was built in the 16th century (and later added onto) to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India - the explorer who essentially “put Portugal on the map” by establishing this trade route. The monastery is also da Gama’s resting place. His tomb is located in the church’s chancel.
The monastery’s central feature is its architecturally magnificent 4-story cloisters, surrounded by white marble columns and delicate arches.
Archways inside Belem Monastary.
Other inspiring features of the site include the marbled tiled Refectory, the 16th-century dining hall for the resident monks. Decorated with azulejo panels (those wonderful blue Portuguese tiles) and high stone arches, it is strikingly beautiful. Those monks certainly dined in style!
The Monastery attracts large crowds, and unfortunately, it is one the few places we’ve been where there isn’t an easy “skip the line” workaround. Even if you buy tickets ahead of time (always recommended), the ticket isn’t “timed” so you have to get on the line one way or another.
Keeping my sunny side up though, the benefit of the long line I suppose is that it means the cloisters aren’t crowded once you get inside - since the flow of visitors is regulated. The result is a very relaxing and contemplative experience. No “snaking shuffles" through the site; you can explore at your leisure.
Tips for visiting Jerónimos Monastery
The line to enter Jerónimos Monastery.
Buy your ticket ahead of time if you can. (We actually did this on John’s phone while waiting in line, as we were unsure if we were going to do it until we got there - we wanted to see how long the line was going to be.)
Here’s a link to buy entry tickets to Jerónimos Monastery.
Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we recommend a product, activity, or hotel, we might receive a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
Get there early! We think about 45 minutes before it opens is best; earlier than that defeats the purpose of avoiding a wait! ;)
We waited in line for about an hour. It’s hard to spend more than an hour or so inside, so I certainly wouldn’t want to wait any longer than that.
Check the hours! We googled the opening time and saw 10:30, but we realized while passing a sign as we got closer to the gate that it had actually opened at 9:30. We probably looked at the hours for the Church by mistake, which opens later. Had we gotten there an hour earlier, we may not have had to wait as long as we did.
Also note that the Monastery isn't open on Mondays and there are some holiday closures as well.
The other option is to get there later in the afternoon, when the line has wound down some. This can give you enough time to explore before it closes. (Be aware that for many museums, the last entry is well before “closing time’. So plan accordingly.)
We passed the monastery in the late afternoon and the line was indeed shorter than when we had been there in the morning, but had we chosen to wait until the afternoon, we would have missed a spectacular sunset on the waterfront near Belém Tower.
(Keeping in mind the early sunset in January when we visited, we still feel that if we had come in summer, we would still do it the way we did - the monastery in the morning and the waterfront in the late afternoon.)
Church of Santa Maria
The Church of Santa Maria is a part of Jerónimos Monastery, but has a separate entrance where the line tends to be much shorter than the entrance to the cloisters. It is also free to enter, so you don’t need a ticket. So if you don’t want to deal with the Monastery line at all, going just to the church would be a good option.
When we came out of the Monastery after spending about an hour inside, there was almost no line at all for the Church entrance.
The 16th-century Church of Santa Maria is stunning . Even if you are feeling “monked out” after visiting the cloisters and decide not to go inside the church, do take a few minutes to take in the exterior.
The style of architecture is known as Manueline, which reflects the time of Manuel I and the Age of Discoveries, a style rich with maritime motifs, such as anchors, boats, ropes, shells, and sea creatures. The facade of the church is decorated with intricate carvings of these themes as well as Christian crosses and symbols. The many elaborate detailed statues represent a mixture of Christian figures and maritime heroes - Henry the Navigator and King Manuel himself. (It always fascinates me personally to see this type of mix of the “holy” and the “worldly” in church settings - it does make one think.)
The inside of the Church showcases beautiful stained glass, sweeping arches and grand vaulted ceilings. The Upper Choir loft, where the monks would spend time chanting and praying, offers a grand view of the nave and vaulting. And, as mentioned above, the finely embellished Tomb of Vasco da Gama is prominently located in the church chancel.
Lisbon Tropical Botanical Garden
A peacock stands on a wall near cactus plants.
We really enjoyed the quiet atmosphere of the Jardim Botanico Tropical, located about a block away from the monastery and near Belém Palace. It was worth taking the walk over!
There were dozens of peacocks strutting around the grounds which are always fun to see! Other birds and waterfowl were also sharing the park. I always enjoy seeking out birds wherever I go.
The garden - opened by royal decree in 1906 - features a collection of tropical, sub-tropical and temperate plants - the origins of these samples harken back to Portugal’s colonial history.
Not being aware of this, I was surprised to see a path lined with palm trees thriving heartily (reminding me of LA!). I just figured there must be aspects of Portugal’s flora I didn’t know about. It was also surprising to see some of these heat-loving plants in bloom in January. The temperature is quite mild here in winter compared to what we are used to in New Jersey.
The reality is that these specimens didn’t come from here, but from lands that were once colonies of Portugal. The intention was for the garden to be a center for study of tropical plants and agriculture of the colonies.
There is a cactus garden and an Asian garden inspired by Macau within the grounds. Some of the sculptures and structures definitely represent other cultures as well.
With colonialism days fortunately in the past, today the garden is part of the University of Lisbon and is a National Monument.
We found the garden to be very peaceful and pretty, with decorative bridges, water features and quiet tiled alcoves to sit and relax. The contrast between the rest of busy Belém and this very quiet and empty place is delightful.
Belém Palace
The rear of the Belém Palace seen from the Lisbon Tropical Botanical Garden
What was once the home of Portuguese kings, today Belém Palace is the official residence of the President of Portugal. The residence is mostly used as the venue for official receptions and state visits.
Through the Tropical Botanical Garden, you can sneak a peek at the rear of the presidential palace. It seemed a bit humble from the back; its pink facade looked to me like it could use a bit of freshening up.
Except for the guards on the street, there isn’t much indication of its “official” stature. The whole area was pretty quiet when we were there. But if you see a green flag hoisted, that means that the president is in town.
There is also a presidential museum just a short walk away, the Museu da Presidência da República (the Museum of the Presidency of the Republic). The museum is currently closed to the public and there isn’t much information available as to why it is closed or when it will be open again. But when it does re-open it seems like it would be worth a stop, as it is right there in the area.
The ceremony of the Solemn Changing of the Guard of the National Republicans usually takes place on the 3rd Sunday of each month, at 11:00 am, on Rua de Belém. But the website of the National Republican Guard seems to say it won’t take place till April.
Thoughts on Eating in Belém
Pastéis de Belém and coffee.
With so many tourist attractions in the area, eating in Belém can be a little expensive and often targeted at tourists. So we tried to do lunch as simply as possible and then have dinner out of the area. More on that later. ⬇️
We grabbed lunch at Lisbon Cafe Belem, right on Largo dos Jerónimos, which violates our “don’t eat too close to the attraction” rule but we were just looking for something very basic to eat, without breaking the bank and this cafe offered salads, wraps, sandwiches, etc, which was what we were looking for.
Plus, we didn’t want too much so we could get egg custard tarts at the famous Pastéis de Belém, just a few doors away! :)
Pastéis de Belém
It’s no exaggeration to say that Pastéis de Belém is the Holy Grail for seekers of Portuguese egg tarts. It’s the original cafe where the beloved pastry was introduced.
We opted to sit inside rather than join the long takeaway line. Normally, we might be inclined to grab the pastries and go sit out for a little picnic and a view. But at Pastéis de Belém, the wait is often longer for takeaway than dine-in.
We waited in a short line inside but it moved very quickly. The cafe has a lot of seating, and generally people aren’t staying very long as they are only having a pastry and a coffee.
Although it’s an old establishment, it operates in a very modern way - the staff is extremely on the ball and there are little helpful updates like a digital menu, and places where you can be entertained watching the beléms being made while waiting in line. It is really quite an amazing operation!
(Their clockwork efficiency reminded me somewhat of having churros & hot chocolate at San Gines in Madrid.)
Pastéis de Belém is one of the largest restaurants we’ve ever been in - room after room, it just keeps going! There is even an outside patio. It’s very nice to get off one’s feet after visiting the monastery and gardens.
Pastéis de Belém did not disappoint! The tarts truly are delicious, if slightly different in both color and texture than some other pastéis de natas we sampled while in Portugal. (Note that here in Belém, they are referred to as beléms.)
We have lots more about pastéis de natas and other Portuguese delicacies in our post What to eat when visiting Portugal.
LX Factory
One of the entrances to LX Factory
Although it’s not in Belém, we think a stop at LX Factory is worth a mention in this post. We had dinner at LX Factory on the way back after our day in Belém. This turned out to be a good choice!
To get to LX Factory from Belém, you can take Tram 15E to the Santo Amaro stop.
The best way to pay for the tram is by tapping your Navegante card on the validator onboard the tram.
You can also purchase a ticket from the driver in cash or tap a credit card on the validator (but that will cost you slightly more)
Eating in and around Belém can be a little touristy (translation, overpriced and not-so-good), and although LX Factory certainly entertains tourists, it is also favored by locals. Plus, it has a funky, hip, young atmosphere which is charming.
Once the site of a wiring factory and an important industrial center, this part of the Alcântara neighborhood has been repurposed into a hub for art, culture, fashion, multimedia and nightlife. And food of course!
There are some very nice restaurants in the complex, and we enjoyed an excellent burger at Micro Burger. Aperol spritzes hit the spot after a busy day of sightseeing.
With over 50 shops and restaurants at LX Factory, you are bound to find something you like. And it looks cool too!
The Monument of Discoveries
Closeup of the Monument of Discoveries
The waterfront at Belém is truly a visual and visceral treat. We walked through an underpass to cross the road and railroad tracks to reach the Explorers Memorial, also known as the Monument of Discoveries.
This is such a great spot just to appreciate maritime Lisbon. The imposing monument commemorates the Portuguese Age of Discovery (by now you might be noticing a theme here in Belém!) and strikes the sky like a powerful sailing ship.
At the bow of the “ship” stands a figure of Henry the Navigator, and 33 historical figures from the period of the Discoveries flank him on ramps going down both sides of the monument.
You can visit the inside of the monument if you want to, which costs about £5, and climb up to the top to get a grand view of the Tagus river. But really, there’s no need to. It’s much more interesting to enjoy the outside area.
The large Rosa dos Ventos Square where the monument sits is covered in classic Portuguese mosaic stonework patterns and is always busy with activity, live music playing and folks just enjoying the day. There are restaurants and food trucks with seating along the waterfront.
Belém Tower
The park around Belém Tower at sunset
We took a short and pleasant walk along the waterfront to Belém Tower, with the intention of seeing the sunset there. And what a beautiful scene it turned out to be!
A little about Belém Tower: it was built in the 16th century to defend Lisbon from incoming raids along the Tagus River. Like the Monastery, the Tower displays classic Manueline architecture, sporting detailed carvings of royal, maritime and Christian themes.
Over its long history, Belem Tower has served many purposes, being used as a lighthouse at one time, as well as a customs center and even a prison! But today it’s a well-visited monument and icon of Portuguese culture.
You can go inside the tower but we chose not to. Though the interior does sound interesting, with an arched artillery room, dungeons and a stone spiral staircase leading up to a viewing terrace, it tends to get overcrowded, and long queues are something we would rather avoid when possilble. Seeing it from the outside was just as satisfying to us and a better use of our time.
Belém Tower at sunset
You need to purchase a ticket online ahead of time if you want to go inside.
Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we recommend a product, activity, or hotel, we might receive a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
We made the right choice in arriving here as the sun was starting to drop. It really was stunning and colorful at sunset and made for some of our favorite photographs of the trip.
And don’t forget to look across the river for the Rio-inspired statue of Christ.
The area around Belém Tower is beautiful at sunset
Notable Museums in Belém
Belem is indeed a museum district. Besides the historical monuments we visited, there are many popular museums in the area. Here are some of the most notable:
Navy Museum (Museu de Marinha) - Belem’s location along the water makes it a center for Portugal’s maritime history. The Navy Museum displays a huge collection of model ships and replicas of 16th-century maps.
National Coach Museum - A very popular museum, this 100-year-old museum contains an extensive collection of horse-drawn coaches and wagons that is one of the largest in the world. Many of these exquisitely decorated carriages once belonged to historically important European monarchs as well as aristocratic Portuguese.
Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (MAAT) - The curved building of MAAT is architecturally beautiful in its own right. Inside, there are many changing exhibitions of contemporary art, including immersive audio-visual work.
National Archaeological Museum - Connected to the Jerónimos Monastery, this museum contains artifacts dating back to Palaeolithic times and also displays pieces from cultures around the world.
Centro Cultural de Belém - This complex is Portugal’s biggest arts center, hosting concerts, dance performances and art exhibitions. Its collection of modern and contemporary art showcases works by Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon and photographer Nan Goldin. It also features a terrace café that overlooks the river.
This post was researched and written by Debbie of the Empty Nest Explorers. You can learn more about the Empty Nest Explorers here
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