Lyon, France: what to see in one day
After a day of rain, the late afternoon sun shines over the Saône River. All photos by John O’Boyle / The Empty Nest Explorers (except hotel photos)
Lyon is the third largest city in France and is recognized as the country’s gastronomic capital - which is an impressive title for a country well known for its food!
But the flavor of Lyon extends well beyond the table - with over a thousand years of history, Lyon is known for its significant architectural landmarks, its lively cultural scene, and a diversified economy that includes both traditional and modern industries.
Located between Paris and Marseille, Lyon is easy to get to by train and worth a stop. Even if you can only spend an overnight in Lyon like we did, there is plenty you can see and do in a day.
Lyon is a big, sophisticated city - encompassing many arrondissements and a considerable suburban metro area around it. It has a culture and feel similar to Paris, yet it still has a character very much its own. It doesn’t feel quite as busy as Paris. In fact, for a city of this caliber, it feels rather spacious. And whereas the architecture of Paris is subtly hued in whites and pale tones, Lyon is strikingly colorful. Golden hues and warm pastel shades dominate.
Table of Contents
The Layout of Lyon: what can you reasonably see in a day
You can catch a fantastic view of Lyon from the plaza behind Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière.
You’ll need a little understanding of Lyon’s interesting geography, which, as with many important cities, has shaped its history. You could certainly spend weeks exploring everything Lyon has to offer, but if you only have one full day, here’s what you need to know.
The heart of the city centers around La Presqu'Île or the peninsula of Lyon, which lies between two rivers: the Rhône and the Saône. Right in the center of the La Presqu'ile lies La Place Bellecour, one of the largest open squares in Europe. Many visitors consider the square a good place to start.
The peninsula is bounded by two large hills to the west and north and a large plain eastward. The flat eastern area is where most of the people of “modern Lyon” live and work.
The northern hill is La Croix-Rousse, known as "the hill that works" because it is traditionally home to many small silk workshops, an important historical industry in Lyon.
The ornate interior of Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière.
The western hill is Fourvière, known as "the hill that prays" because the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière and other historical landmarks are located there and it is the home of the Archbishop of Lyon. This side of the river is the home of Vieux Lyon or Old Town, the oldest part of the city.
Vieux Lyon is a must-see area, and if you only have a day, you’ll want to focus on it. The “old town” is walkable from the center of the city (about 30 minutes; but there is good public transportation as well, and Uber also operates in Lyon.)
Best of all, you can take a cool funicular up Fourvière Hill, which is always a bonus for me!
We did a lot of walking in Lyon and would recommend doing so if you can. Walking gives you a great opportunity for serendipity and experiencing the local flavor. We also made use of the tram system to get around.
So a basic plan for a one-day exploration goes like this: you’ll definitely want to spend some time in the city center, walk across the river over one of the many picturesque footbridges to visit Vieux Lyon and experience the impressive historic sites, including the Basilica de Notre Dame some pretty cool Roman Ruins. Finish up with a meal and a visit to Hôtel de Ville, the historic town hall of Lyon, located between lively plazas back across the river.
We break down lots of details below, so read on!
Getting to and around Lyon
After arriving on a high speed train from Marseille we boarded a tram to out hotel.
By train:
We traveled from Marseille to Lyon via “high-speed” train, which took about an hour and a half. This is a good way to get to Lyon from Paris as well.
Lyon Part-Dieux station is located in the central business district of Lyon, so it gets you right into the heart of things. Train services are mainly operated by SNCF with frequent TGV high-speed and TER regional services as well as Eurostar and Deutsche Bahn.
We like to book high-speed train trips using Trainline. Their website is easy to use and covers many countries throughout Europe.
A little insider info - there is only one restroom in the Lyon Part-Dieu station, which means there tends to be a queue when a train has just arrived. So you may want to use the lavatory on the train before you get off, if you need to, so you don’t have to wait in line. The good news is this one bathroom at the train station is very clean, and although it costs 1 euro to use it, both Coin and Tap to Pay are accepted.
Flying into Lyon:
You can fly directly into Lyon. Lyon-Saint-Exupéry Airport (LYS) has direct flights from more than 40 countries as well as many flights with connections. It is located about 20 miles from the city center, but is well connected by public transport. The Rhônexpress tram shuttle connects the airport to Lyon Part-Dieu station. The shuttle runs every 15 minutes, and takes around 30 minutes.
Lyon Metro:
You can tap your credit card to pay on the tram.
Lyon has a great public transport network, run by TCL (Transports Commun Lyonnais). It consists of 4 metro lines, 6 tram lines, 2 funicular railways and over a hundred bus routes, so it can get you pretty much anywhere you want to go.
A single ticket costs €2 and can be used for any mode of public transport (bus, metro or tram). Tickets can be bought using coins or a credit card at any metro station and at most tram stations. Tickets can also be purchased inside buses and trams (single trip only) using ApplePay or contactless cards.
Remember to validate your ticket!!! The ticket lasts for one hour and you can use it as many times as you want within this hour. However, you must validate your ticket every time you board a new bus/tram.
We used Tap to Pay on the tram, because we could not find a ticket machine at the particular stop we were using. The red readers on board are designated for Tap to Pay.
Lyon City Pass - An option for getting around town is to purchase Lyon City Pass. You can choose a pass for 24, 48, 72 or 96 hour periods and the pass includes:
Unlimited access to Lyon’s public transport (bus, metro, tram, funicular)
The transfer from LYS airport to Lyon
Free entrance to 25 museums and temporary exhibitions
Of course, if you are only in Lyon for a day and don’t plan on going to any museums, it probably isn’t worth getting. But it may save you money for a longer stay.
Remember that Google Maps is an easy way to figure out your transportation options while exploring a new city - it can show you what metro, bus or tram line to take, as well as walking or driving routes. But be aware that this uses data on your phone.
For data usage while traveling abroad, we like to use an eSim. There are numerous options, but the one we’ve been happy with is Airalo.
You can purchase country-specific or European-wide cards, for a set amount of gigabytes. It’s relatively easy to set up and seamless to use once it is set. If the data starts running low, Airalo gives you a warning, and it’s easy to add a small amount more to get you through your trip.
Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we are recommending a product, activity, or hotel, we might be receiving a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
La Place Bellecour
Rue Victor Hugo leads directly to La Place Bellecour.
La Place Bellecour is a very large pedestrian square in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement,, marked by a massive bronze statue of Louis XIV, the Sun King, riding his horse.
The contemporary square is surrounded by a lively scene of eateries, shops, museums and bars.
Actually Lyon has a number of these nicely designed pedestrian squares and plazas, which gives it a particular walkability. We stayed at Hôtel Alexandra overlooking Place Ampère and it was fun to peek out the window and just do some people-watching over the square. We even were treated to a spontaneous serenade by an acapella choir - perhaps they were part of Opéra National de Lyon?
Exploring Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)
One of the many bridges across the Saône River.
Head toward the Vieux Lyon by taking one of the many scenic pedestrian bridges (or passerelles) across the Saône River. The largest bridge across is Pont Bonaparte.
It was a rainy-off-and-on kind of day when we ventured into Vieux Lyon, which created a dreamy, ruminative atmosphere. We were treated to pockets of sunlight slipping through clouds and intermittent raindrops, fleeting rainbows and drizzly, heavy gray skies. But as they say, there is no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing, so armed with rain slickers, we progressed on.
On the other side of the river, you'll see the Église Saint-Georges (Church of St. George), a neo-gothic church and historic monument. (If you crossed the river at Passerelle Saint Georges it will be straight ahead of you.)
Behind the church is Rue de Saint Georges. Turn right onto this street and follow it into the center of Vieux Lyon, the Saint-Jean neighborhood.
This is the oldest district of Lyon, with charming cobblestoned streets and a history that spans from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance and onto today. Take your time to explore and absorb the local atmosphere. We happened into a square during school dismissal time and got a taste of everyday life in Old Lyon, picking up snippets of conversations and just enjoying being among the locals.
The historic Funiculaire de Fourvière
Waiting to board the Funiculaire de Fourvière.
I love a good cable car ride. You could choose to walk up to Fourvière Hill, but why walk when there’s the historic Funiculaire de Fourvière?!
The Funiculaire de Fourvière dates back to 1900 (but don’t worry - it’s been modernized a few times since then!) It’s a fun 2-minute ride and costs 3.60€. It requires a special ticket - not a metro ticket - and this ticket includes the return trip.
Unlimited Funicular rides are included in the Lyon City Pass.
At the top, you will be a short walk away from the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the Gallo-Roman Museum and Ruins.
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière
You won’t want to miss the Basilica of Notre-Dame, which overlooks the city of Lyon from its high, dominating perch on Fourvière Hill. As it was raining when we got there, we had the terrace almost to ourselves and it was well worth a few raindrops for the sweeping view.
The imposing structure has four main towers, and a bell tower topped with a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary, to whom it is dedicated. Mary is credited for saving the city of Lyon from the bubonic plague that swept through Europe in 1643. Because of this, each year in early December (correlating with December 8, when the Immaculate Conception is celebrated in the Catholic liturgical calendar), Lyon gives thanks by lighting candles throughout the city, in what is called the Fête des Lumières or the Festival of Lights.
The Basilica was built between 1872 and 1896, and occupies the spot that was once the Roman forum of Trajan, the forum “vetus” (old forum), thus its name is an inverted corruption of the French “Vieux-Forum”. It is so dominant that it has become a symbol of the city.
Definitely go inside the basilica because it is quite impressive and it doesn’t cost anything to do. It’s very ornate with intricate arches and balustrades, a heavily decorated ceiling, painted frescoes, and luminous stained glass.
It was a bit ironic to find a very modern system of Tap to Pay for lighting candles juxtaposed against this rather Gothic looking scene. And since 1982, the tower of the basilica has housed radio antennas. Well, time marches on, I suppose.
Fun fact - I read that the basilica has supposedly acquired the local nickname of "l'éléphant à l'envers” (the upside-down elephant) because the building looks like the body of an elephant and the four towers look like its legs sticking up.
Hmm. I guess I sort of see it.
The Basilica, which offers guided tours and contains a Museum of Sacred Art, receives two million visitors annually.
Gallo-Roman Ruins and Museum
As with so many old cities in Europe, Lyon has Roman ruins!
Adjacent to the Basilica are the Gallo-Roman Amphitheatre and Odeon. It's quite remarkable to just wander around these ruins; it’s not very crowded and feels rather “hands on”. Like many ancient Roman structures, these sites were used as quarries for a period of time to build much of Lyon, which left them in a state of decay until they were partially rebuilt during the 20th century. Today, the two buildings host concerts, festivals, guided tours and other events.
For further exploration, you can also visit the Lugdunum, or Musée de la Civilisation Romaine. Nearly invisible from the outside, the museum is formed of a concrete structure that hides under the vegetation and blends into the landscape, using wide windows to incorporate the real ruins into its display.
The unique museum houses its own permanent collections of Roman, Celtic and pre-Roman statues, jewelry and everyday objects, as well as a plan-relief of the ancient town and scale models of its major monuments. It also regularly hosts temporary exhibitions. Admission is €7 to the museum, but you can just visit the ruins for free.
Traboules of Lyon
One of the more unusual things to do in Lyon is to explore the city’s clandestine traboules, a network of hidden passageways that run underneath the buildings toward the Saône River.
These passageways and courtyards were created during the Renaissance period as a series of “shortcuts” that allowed workmen to transport silk and other textiles through the city while remaining sheltered from inclement weather and to simply allow easy access to the river. They also played a part during World War II in helping to prevent the Germans from taking over the city, making Lyon a center of French resistance. Some have decorative elements and interesting architectural features.
Many of the traboules are on private property today, serving as entrances to local apartments, but about 40 or so are open to the public. Most of these traboules are located in Vieux Lyon but some lesser known ones are in other parts of the city. They are mostly tourist attractions these days and not really used as thoroughfares the way they used to be. Some are only accessible with a guide and some are closed and only used for storage.
For up-to-date descriptions and locations of the traboules, the Lyon Convention and Visitors' Bureau has this official app.
Hôtel de Ville (City Hall of Lyon)
The ornate details of Hôtel de Ville.
Cross back over the Saône via the Passerelle Saint Vincent or the Pont de la Feuillée and head east for a short distance to the Hôtel de Ville and its surrounding area.
You will be approaching the beautiful city hall building from the back, through Place des Terreaux, a vibrant square that is in itself a Lyon landmark and a UNESCO heritage site. It’s a great place to hang out and get a drink or bite in one of the outdoor cafes. Besides the city hall, it is also the location of Lyon’s Fine Arts Museum and of the Bartholdi Fountain, which is an impressive sculpture with some very realistic looking horses.
Fun fact - the Bartholdi Fountain was made by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi, the same sculptor who created the Statue of Liberty in New York. (As every American school kid knows, Miss Liberty was a gift to the USA from France. )
We got to the square when the sun was starting to set and it was a great time to be there, as the back of the ornate Hôtel de Ville building was aglow with beautiful orange light. It was worth just taking it in for a while. The facade is covered in intricate carvings, creating contrasting shadows in the luminous scene.
On the other side of the city hall is another plaza, Place de la Comédie, where you can see the incredible Opéra National de Lyon, with its massive glass dome on top.
The plaza outside Hôtel de Ville.
Eating in Lyon
Lyon has the reputation of being the gastronomical capital of France. As we were only there for a short time and were exploring the city in a wandering sort of way, we didn’t make specific dinner plans. But there just came a point where we were very hungry and more than ready to sit for a while and needed to make a choice.
Rather than googling anything or looking up well-reviewed restaurants, we relied on our instincts and experienced eye for what might be a “non-touristy” place to eat - no hawkers outside bidding diners in, signs primarily or entirely in French, and not too close to a tourist attraction.
Famished and exhausted we wound up at L’Authenik, a Halal restaurant in Old Town, and it all worked out perfectly! Though I’m almost embarrassed to admit I ordered a burger in a world-renowned food city like Lyon, I’m happy to report that it was delicious- one of the best burgers I’ve ever tasted. So, even from our limited experience of eating in Lyon, the reputation rings true.
Our favorite travel resources
Hotels - Booking.com. Lots of search options and information. Link
Activities - Viator. We love food tours and historical guides from Viator. Link
Airfare - FareDrop. Custom notifications of airfare sales. Link
Phone connection - Airalo. E-Sim for your phone, it’s easy and available for every country. Link
(Ok, of course I know that the French do eat hamburgers, and it is common to see them on menus in France, even at some pretty upscale restaurants ;)
If you are looking specifically for traditional Lyonnaise dishes, many of them focus around sausages and offal; Andouillette is a local coarse-grained sausage and Tablier de sapeur is a Lyonnais speciality dish made from beef tripe. This isn’t exactly our cup of tea, admittedly being more inclined toward a Lyonnaise salad - mostly for the runny egg on top!
For sweets, Lyon is known for its pink pralines - almonds cooked in pink caramelized sugar. Tarte aux pralines is a popular dessert made with them, as well as Praline brioche, a buttery brioche dough with pink pralines on top, made popular by a Lyonnaise chef in the 1950s.
But really, you can find almost anything you want to eat in Lyon. Young, talented chefs are attracted to the culinary atmosphere, and gastronomic tastes and concepts are constantly being reinvented.
Since we weren’t in town very long, we can’t offer much in the way of specific dining recommendations, but that seems almost an impossible thing to do anyway, as Lyon and its surrounding area boasts over 4000 restaurants, from bistros (traditionally called bouchons) to the highest of high-end establishments, run by Michelin Star chefs.
Restaurants along Rue Merciere.
We really enjoyed the atmosphere at Rue Merciere. The narrow, pedestrian-only street is bustling with outdoor cafes, bars and bistros. This is one of the oldest streets of Lyon and was famous as far back as the 16th century for its print shops. It can be a little bit touristy today, but the crowds actually make it lively.
If you have another half-day in town, or just want to spend your one day concentrating on the food culture, why not consider a food tour? We have enjoyed these in several different cities - Madrid, Montreal, and others - and we find them to be a great way to find local places and learn some history of the city while you’re at it. Lyon, which takes such pride in its cuisine, seems to be a perfect choice for a food tour!
You can see some top-ranked food tours here.
Diners at Place_des_Terreaux.
Food Markets in Lyon
Of course with so many chefs and food establishments in Lyon, there would have to be food markets! Here are a few suggestions:
Marché Saint-Antoine Célestins along the Saône is a vibrant outdoor market with wonderful produce and great cheese offerings. Local chefs often shop here. Located at Quai Saint-Antoine, just a short walk from La Place Bellecour, this fits in well with the one-day agenda described above for a quick walk-through or longer peruse.
Les Halles Lyon Paul Bocuse is not exactly a market but an indoor food hall and upmarket food emporium and is considered a “mecca for taste buds' ' and one of the best places to see in Lyon. It features all the local “big houses” with their cheeses, charcuterie and pastries. Located across the Rhône River at 102 Cours Lafayette, it’s not really walkable from Vieux Lyon and the other places we mention for a one-day visit, but it is accessible by metro or a great hit if you have another day to spend.
Le Marché de la Croix Rousse is located on the silk-weavers’ hill of Croix-Rousse in the 4th arrondissement (north part of the city.) Open every day except Monday from 6qm to 1:30pm this huge outdoor market supports 100 local vendors selling a huge selection of fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, poultry, cheese and bread as well as hot dishes sold ready-to-eat. The food market of La Croix Rousse lines the Boulevard de la Croix Rousse, a residential and somewhat bohemian neighborhood and many locals do their grocery shopping there. Not close to the other areas we talked about for a one-day visit, but if you have another day to spend, you can take the metro and also eat lunch there in one of the many cafes across the street.
Lyon Street Food Festival is considered the most fun culinary event of the year in Lyon. It features everything from food trucks to Michelin-starred chefs preparing some of their signature dishes. So if you happen to be in town in the middle of June, you’re in luck. The Festival includes not only food but music and cultural events and costs €10 to get in.
Some interesting Historical Facts about Lyon
Lyon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with over a thousand years of history.
Lyon was historically an important area for the production and weaving of silk. By the mid-17th century, there were 14,000 looms in the city and the silk industry was responsible for the livelihoods of a third of the population.
Silk prices eventually fell when the machines of the Industrial Revolution were introduced and the workers rebelled, in one of the first industrial workers’ strikes in France. You can learn all about Lyon’s traditional silk production process at the Maison des Canuts, a silk weaving museum and workshop, or by taking a silk walking tour.
Lyon played a significant role in the history of cinema since Auguste and Louis Lumière invented the cinematograph there. The Musée Cinéma et Miniature is considered a must-see for film lovers.
Lyon is the home of many small niche museums!
The city is also known for its light festival, the Fête des Lumières, which begins every 8 December and lasts for four days, earning Lyon the title of "Capital of Lights".
Economically, Lyon is a major center for banking, chemical, pharmaceutical and biotech industries.
Modern Lyon contains a significant software industry with a particular focus on video games. In recent years, the city has fostered a growing local start-up sector.
Lyon is the home of renowned universities and higher education schools and is the second-largest student city in France, with a university population of nearly 200,000 students within the metropolitan area.
Lyon hosts the international headquarters of Interpol, the International Agency for Research on Cancer, and Euronews.
In Roman times the city was called Caput Galliæ, meaning "capital of the Gauls". As an homage to this title, the Archbishop of Lyon is still called the Primate of Gaul.
Lyon was a center of the French Resistance during World War II.
And, most exciting, Lyon will host some football matches at the Summer Olympics 2024!
🇫🇷 ALLEZ ALLEZ, ÉQUIPE DE FRANCE!!! 🇫🇷
Where to stay in Lyon
Hôtel Alexandra
We stayed here and enjoyed the room and location.
Directly above metro station.
Parking available on-site.
Breakfast available.
More details and rates here.
Hotel Carlton Lyon
Upscale Art Deco-style hotel with moderate prices.
Short walk to Bellecour Square.
Variety of rooms including a suite with a view of Republic Square.
More details and rates here.
Intercontinental Lyon Hotel Dieu
Exceptional hotel with the corresponding price tag.
144 rooms and suites in the hotel with stunning views.
Features a fitness center, a garden, and a terrace.
Concierge service available.
More details and rates here.
Lyon has many other hotel options, see some of them here.
This post was researched and written by Debbie of the Empty Nest Explorers. You can learn more about the Empty Nest Explorers here
Some well-reviewed Lyon tours:
Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we are recommending a product, activity, or hotel, we might be receiving a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
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