Visiting Saint Paul de Vence: the oldest medieval town in the South of France
There are plenty of charming, romantic, medieval hill towns in the South of France, and one that particularly captured my heart was Saint Paul de Vence. It is one of the most visited towns on the French Riviera, but don’t let that scare you away. Despite being very popular with tourists, it is pretty manageable to visit; though busy, it didn’t feel as intense as some other towns. An overnight stay is a good way to experience it with fewer tourists.
I really didn’t have any particular expectations when we motored into Saint Paul de Vence, having just come from beautiful Eze and a luxury experience where we were treated like royalty. I mean, how do you top one of the most breathtaking views you’ve ever witnessed from a secluded, essentially private terraced garden over the shimmering blue Mediterranean?
But hold on now, Saint Paul de Vence has plenty of its own charm and is surprisingly unique. Perched atop a hill in the French countryside north of Nice, Saint Paul de Vence seems to beckon you as you approach it, like something out of a storybook. It has a captivating history with art - over 20 masters have lived there and an artistic community still thrives.
The dramatic stone walled Old Town currently houses 300 locals within its perimeter, while the rest of the 3500 residents live outside it in the valleys and hillsides below, habitating beautiful villas that are as picturesque as the scenery itself.
With the mountains of the Alps in the distance, and panoramic views of the Mediterranean all the way to Cap d’ Antibes, and the architecture and gardens thrown in for good measure, the views from the hilltop town are just extraordinary. In my imagination, if someone ever invited me to their “French country home”, well, I hope it would be one of those gorgeous villas! (one can dream…)
Please note: There is also a town named Vence just 20-minutes away from Saint Paul de Vence, so don’t be confused. Saint Paul de Vence is really the one you’ll want to see.
Getting to Saint Paul de Vence
The hilltop Old Town section of Saint Paul de Vence is a pedestrian only village. No cars or bikes are allowed.
However, we decided that renting a car and driving would be the most convenient way to get around some of these small towns in the South of France. For more information on driving in France, visit our blog post Tips for driving while visiting France.
Since we were staying inside Old Town village overnight, we were allowed to drive in and look for parking along the streets (you just say so at the gate. Big shots! - not really!). It was quite an adventure - the very narrow, inclined cobblestone streets were definitely a challenge and I’m very glad John was driving and not me!
But in the end, we could not find available parking as it is very limited, so we wound up driving back down and parking in a nearby car park, Espace Sainte-Claire, just outside the gate. It was a very modern, well appointed, multi-leveled parking garage that felt very secure and it was only a short walk to the old town.
Though we are glad we tried to park in town - coz it was kinda fun though a little nerve wracking - if we had to do it again, we would just skip trying to park within the town altogether and go right to the car park. However, realize that you will have to drag your bags up those same cobblestoned streets that we drove up, so how capable a walker you are and how much luggage you have with you is a factor. It is always a good idea to travel light on these types of trips where you are moving around a lot - even if you do have a car. A small roller bag and a backpack are really all one needs. It doesn’t make sense to be limited by baggage.
If you prefer getting there via public transportation, Bus #400 runs between Saint Paul de Vence and Nice Airport, but only once or twice an hour. It takes about an hour from Nice to get to Saint Paul de Vence.
The nearest train station is Cagnes Sur Mer (TER line 4) and you will still need to take the #400 Bus the rest of the way to Saint Paul de Vence, so a train really isn’t the best option.
Exploring Saint Paul de Vence
Saint Paul de Vence is a town full of interesting little artistic details. Sculptures show up in random spots, Shop windows captivate you with edgy, sophisticated displays. And of course there are always the stunning surrounding views from just about anywhere you look. It’s less a place for checking off “sights” than it is a place for appreciating thought-provoking details.
It is not a big town, so if you are only visiting for a day trip, you could walk through it pretty quickly, but do yourself a favor and take it slowly. Stop for a drink and savor the moment. (Saint Germain Spritz, anyone??)
There is no shortage of places to dine in the old town, many with views. But do be aware of restaurant hours, as many close for a period between “lunch” and “dinner” hours. Also, as with other cities in France, some places only serve drinks past a certain time.
We had dinner on the cobblestoned patio of Le Tilleul and we felt like we were dining in an Impressionist painting, with the ambiance of old trees gently enhanced with lights, white tablecloths and countryside views. The Raviolis Niçois were just crazy good - that rich beef stew sauce!! Ooh la la! - and our server was too charming and encouraged me to use my French. :)
Shopping in Saint Paul de Vence
A life sized art piece in the window of a gallery.
The shops in Saint Paul de Vence are very artist centric, and there were so many interesting galleries to explore, offering unique pieces to browse, even if not buying.
I actually did wind up purchasing a few small items, and this may have been one of the few times when I regretted not having a bigger suitcase! Bringing home a bit of art from here was a great temptation for both of us! Ah, perhaps another time. But many of the artisans will ship items home for you
Because we stayed overnight, we were able to explore the town after the daytrippers went home in the evening and in the early morning the next day before they arrived.
An early morning walk gave us a unique opportunity to observe the culture among the shopkeepers, who by and large seemed to be the owners and artists themselves rather than just “workers”. They all came out while opening their gates to converse and share news and it seemed to be a real community. This just felt a little different than other “tourist towns”.
Saint Paul de Vence has had a long relationship with artists. Picasso, Modigliani, Dufy, and Matisse all lived for a time in Saint-Paul de Vence. Marc Chagall is probably the artist most associated with the town, and he is buried in the local cemetery. The murals he painted at the tiny chapel of Saint Paul’s Notre Dame de la Nativité are considered to be some of his best work. (The chapel is open to the public.)
It’s just lovely to think how the artist tradition continues here.
The Cemetery at Saint Paul de Vence
Bury me in Saint Paul de Vence!
Ok, I’m only kidding, but this small, contemplative little cemetery surrounded by stunning views of Provence does seem like a right peaceful place to spend eternity.
The main attraction of the cemetery is the modest grave of artist Marc Chagall, who lived in the town for 19 years, but there are other famous people buried there as well. All the graves in this cemetery are stone tombs above ground, often decorated with permanent remembrances - carved plaques bearing loving tributes and ceramic flower pieces that never fade away.
It's quite a moving experience to visit and I would definitely recommend not passing it by.
Walking the wall in Saint Paul de Vence
Debbie and John walking the wall.
The city wall is a bit of a local character of its own, and walking along it is a fun thing to do.
There are great views of the town and the countryside all around.
This wall has been protecting the city since the 1400s, which kind of boggles the mind! Rather amazing to think how long it's been standing and how it protected the city when it played a very strategic role in the power struggle between Provence and Savoy. Two of the towers from the original medieval ramparts still exist.
A word of caution: there are no safety railings along the wall, so watch your step - it’s a long way down! I wouldn’t be inclined to do this with smaller children for this reason.
Le Grande Fontaine
We stayed in the hotel above the iconic fountain.
Bringing water into the ancient city of Saint Paul de Vence is integral to its history. It is actually the oldest medieval town in southern France, and many of its ancient aqueducts still exist. You will actually see one just as you get into town, unassuming and unmarked, with people just hanging out using it as a place to sit.
A centerpiece of the town is Le Grande Fontaine, or Grand Fountain, located in one of the many public squares. It has been providing drinking water for the village since it was built in 1615! Today it is a historic monument and a focal point for visitors.
We actually stayed right here at Hostellerie de la Fontaine. The little window you see above the fountain was one the stairwells leading up to our room. It was a very unique and charming place to stay - I felt like we had our own castle for the night - but it is perhaps not for everyone.
Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we are recommending a product, activity, or hotel, we might be receiving a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
There are no elevators and you need to carry up your bags on small winding staircases. Of course, this is part of the charm of staying in this kind of accommodation, but it’s a consideration.
Our suite was large and recently updated in a pretty, eclectic style, but due to the old nature of the building, there are many step-ups and step-downs (says the girl who tripped!). And the strange layout puts the shower and bath pretty much in the same space as the bedroom, which is fine for a couple, but you may not like it if you prefer a more private shower.
The staff was very nice, the views amazing, and the room very comfortable. I slept like a baby. The included breakfast was served in a charming outdoor courtyard that felt very tucked away and private. And very, very French. Pass the croissants s’il vous plait!
For us, our stay in St. Paul de Vence was an unexpectedly fun adventure.
Our favorite travel resources
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Activities - Viator. We love food tours and historical guides from Viator. Link
Airfare - FareDrop. Custom notifications of airfare sales. Link
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Europe train travel - Trainline - We use it to book all our train reservations. Link
Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we recommend a product, activity, or hotel, we might receive a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
View of Le Grande Fontaine from the window in the above photo. The white chairs are where we ate our breakfast.
There is a bell tower at the Town Hall, one of the oldest monuments in the city, where the bell is said to bear the Latin inscription, “hora est jam de sommo suggere” - roughly translated, this means “the hours invite us to dream”.
I like that. For dreamy Saint Paul de Vence, that seems just right. :)
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Where to stay in Saint Paul de Vence
Hotel Le Saint Paul
5-star hotel
Located directly in town
Fantastic spot if you are looking for a bit of a splurge
More hotel and reservation info here
Hostellerie de la fontaine
Small bed and breakfast, located above a restaurant.
We stayed here and enjoyed the newly renovated room.
Located in the famous “fountain building” in the heart of town.
Hotel Les Messugues
A heated outdoor pool and beautiful gardens.
Short drive to town
“Wonderful” rating on Booking.com
Villa St Maxime
Almost stayed here since it’s walking distance to town.
Outdoor pool
Great views
“Wonderful” rating on Booking.com
This post was researched and written by Debbie of the Empty Nest Explorers. You can learn more about the Empty Nest Explorers here
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Note - This blog post contains affiliate links. This means that if we are recommending a product, activity, or hotel, we might be receiving a small commission if you buy or book from these links. This is done at no additional cost to you. We only recommend products we have personally used or have thoroughly researched.
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